LUVTruck.com

I am finally getting my Luv back together again after garage storage since 1988!
It's like a "barn find" but being in a garage for that time it's still in good shape.
I started by dropping the tranny pan and doing a service.
Then I located a 1979 donor truck in Oklahoma.
I asked the salvage yard to unbolt the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends and send me everything.
$100.00 a side and $40.00 shipping for everything. $240.00 total. I thought it was a fair price and all arrived in great condition. The calipers are not seized, the pads look new and the rotors were in good shape.
All brake lines on the truck are in good shape which amazed me!
After removing my front drum brakes and backing plates I repacked the bearings on the rotor hubs and swapped all disc brake componants onto my spindles. Very straight forward swap with no surprises. I had a bit of a problem with the flex line brackets at the frame but I managed a fix.
I am replacing the master cylinder and booster at the same time.
NAPA charged me $56.91 for the master and $164.15 for the booster. I think you could find a cheaper booster at Advance or anywhere else! I swapped the master today and had a bit of a problem getting the reservoirs off the master.
After 36+ years on the truck they were like part of the master and couldn't be moved! I finally got them separated by driving a putty scraper between the bottom of the reseroirs and slowly walking them off. No damage; whew!
I got tired of working on the brakes so I moved up top and installed a new Edelbrock Performer and made a new accelerator cable bracket.
Tomorrow I get to swap out the booster, install the master and then bleed the brakes.
I also picked up a Pertronix high energy ignition that will fit inside my distributor so I have to install that yet
I previously drained the tank so I just have to do a quick flush, put in fresh gas and, hopefully, start it! We'll find out shortly!

Stay tuned for updates.

Good luck...

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FIAA!

SFPP!

ok not trying to bust your balls or make you upset but unless your master and booster were bad why did you buy new when i looked them up 72 to 79 were the same when i did my swap 76 front disc on a 73 all i swapped was rotors, calipers and went straight on no problems I used my org uppers and lowers and spindals. ( make sure you use grease for disc brakes )flushed old fluid with new stops on a dime. I am using yhe same booster and master from the 73 drums. I thought as most do that cause you went to disc in front you had to change them but I was wrong. I tripple checked before I took her out. I stops my truck better than I ever thought it would.

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If the truck has been sitting since 1988, I would put new ones on too...

_________________
If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I agree old seals are not good .

The truck is a 1975 and had been sitting for too long. The master was shot; I knew that. It was leaking out the back and, I thought, into the booster. The booster, after removal, looks OK. I'll keep it.
I don't have the 1979 and it remains in Oklahoma.
I kept my spindles and only added the disc backing plates and bracket, the disc rotors with hubs and calipers.
As stated all went very well with no surprises,

Bled out the master and brake lines today. Sucess1 No problems!
I'll try and start the truck tomorrow.

The Chevy factory parts manual shows different part numbers on master cylinders. Series 1 is one year only, series. 2 through 4 is the same, series 5 and 6 are the same. Series 8 is one year only and 9 and 10 are the same.

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