LUVTruck.com

Hey Roadshow, sorry I didn't get to this sooner, but I wonder when you used POR-15 before, did you use a complete kit, or did you just try covering it with their finishing coat? No direspect here intended, it's just a price difference. I'm also concerned because I did a careful job on my cab floorpan, using a floorpan kit, which included several steps of all the right stuff to do the job well, and one member even mentioned putting the final coat on both sides which I did where the holes were. I'm expecting it to last for years and years. Is it your opinion that the product will not last?


Before...


Ready to treat


Halfway there...


All done

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

i know this is way old, but did you use the fiberglass mat to fix the hole and if you did how is it holding up?

_________________
do everything in you life so you can put your name on it

It's all but forgotten, perfect. Truck's running fine, too.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

So, just to be clear. Today I D.A sanded all the rust off of my hood. They I sprayed it with self etching primer. I live in Vegas so Im not worred about it rusting overnight. However, when I prime the whole truck and then spray it will I have to worry about the cancer coming back?

All finishes are not created equal, but assuming you did get all the rust removed you should be fine. Have you looked at POR-15 online? http://www.por15.com/ It's what I used.

_________________
'78 1.8L 4-speed Fleetside

The only thing more beautiful than a sunset is a sunrise.

I have never used POR 15 but I've checked out their website and it seems like a good product. I see my local NAPA is selling it as well. If you remove all rust and your components are down to bare metal you can use just about any primer that is a product of the paint you are intending to use and should be fine...meaning Dupont paint use Dupont primer, Sherwin Williams Paint = Sherwin Williams Primer and so forth. There are metal treatments out there you can use before priming and I have painted with and without using them with fine results. Bare Metal with a good layer of primer, sand it until it's ready to paint and then SEAL your vehicle with the same company's sealer before you paint it, then paint it.

_________________
In life there is the "Way things should be" and then "There's the way they are".

2005 Silverado 3/4T Crew Cab
1981 Luv 2WD
1979 Luv 4x4 Currently going through Open Heart and Cosmetic surgery
1995 Roughneck JetBoat
1981 Luv parts trk

It is considered by a lot of people to not use self etch primer anymore. Not to say it is wrong to use it. Etch primer is made to use on fresh bare metal that has not been sanded. It is old school. Those same people believe to use epoxy primer first on prepped metal. Epoxy Primer will not let moisture through to the metal. It is sealed.

The REAL truth of the matter is, IF the paint company offers metal coverters or etch primer they say use it!
Now, are they "needed" or are they only recommended because the company wants to make another sale? That is for YOU to decide.

Bondo is a hot topic too. The original Bondo was made with Talc. The same stuff that baby powder is made from. Baby powder is meant to absorb water. One of the reasons to not use it on bare metal. Their is another product in Bondo type products that does not absorb. Many body repairs have been done with bondo right on the metal. I have done that before too. I do not use bondo on any car work any more.

Modern fillers such as Evercoat rage, metal to metal work well on metal. Still some people feel that a good epoxy primer on first and then do any filler work.

I use Southern Polyurethanes on most anything I do. Great stuff. I have never heard of problems with other paints being used with SPI.
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

I have painted a lot of stuff over 30 years... Enamel, lacquer, Imron, BC/CC and other epoxy paint. Imron is one of the worst.... Nasty Stuff, hard to work with, but it you get it right it will look great. The last thing I used Imron on was my 81 VW Squareback. Yellow Factory color. Got hit in the lift gate... paint was good. Hit a tree with it, the front fender paint just buckled off the fender where it was bent... Very Tough Aircraft paint.

I miss using single stage Enamel. Too many people want a very, very bright paint. Lacquer could do that but it was a Lot of work and is solvent whore. It may not be long before you will not be able to buy Lacquer paint or solvent . BC/CC is the best now.

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.

zero rust
google it

my uncle and i used it in the 70's and he loved it , he worked for Macdonald Douglas and he would paint all his cars with it... guaranteed not to chip at 600mph he would always say... yes some very nasty stuff but looked good when put on wright

_________________
My old but now gone Luv...

You need to have a outside air supply to paint Imron I saw a old school guy paint with lacquer and Enamel, and he would rinse his mouth out with lacquer thinner.

_________________
75 Luv, 350 V8, TH350, Camaro rearend. New 1975 Luv Step side. Stock for now.
Grandmaster of the "Shade Tree" way.. I can't see the yard for all the cars. Come on down and we will sit on the porch and watch the grass grow.