LUVTruck.com

i might be able to dig up a toyo parts diagram for that lower bj, but i know that the damn thing is fat (the stud that is). like the luv bj actually.

Ok, here is why the LUV lower B/J did not work, because i said to myself the same thing you guys are saying to yourselfs (at least thats what i thought i'd say to myself). Why didn't he just move the LUV B/J from the bottom of the control arm to the top of the control arm. Well thats a good question, it fits, but the angle that the ball comes off the mounting point is too extreme. It points outward when it needs to be flat.

Sorry if its hard to make sense of that, i tend to run on a lot. Here is the pic of my working mock-up. Its a work in progress, but rides great, not too stout. What i would eventually like to do is completely remove the lower control arm and tortion bar and strut rod set and install coilovers on a conventional lower A-arm style setup.

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1975 LUV with a caddy 500ci, 12.5-1 comp, 850CFM holley sucking E85 through 110 jets and torquing the hell out of a TH400. Currently @ 6mpg

Bowties may be for little boys, but ponies are DEFINATLY for little girls....

I would say you would need to fit a pointing up type ball joint as it would be constructed differently anyway.


When pointing up the weight of the vehicle is pulling on the balljoint, trying to remove it from the socket.

When pointing down the weight of the vehicle is holding the balljoint in the socket.


Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

I have been toying with the idea of getting a Mustang II type weld in X member for a early rod of some sort and had one figured out even but i don't remember witch one it was now. I do know that all it was going to take was 1/8' shims to make it a good fit.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s