LUVTruck.com

I was bored tonight sitting in front of the computer and was thinking about how I am going to go about rear brakes for the rear end sitting in the back of my truck. I was thumbing through some of my old circle track catalogs and put some combinations down on paper. I came up with a solution that cost about $236 minus a few nuts and bolts. I didnt think the price was too bad considering using willwood rotors and IMCA rotor hats. I think I am going to try this on my truck when the time comes. If anyone is interested I will post the part numbers and the best place I know of to get the parts.

I just looked into that yesterday at the local speed shop. From what i seen, there's 2 problems right off the bat. 1st, the disk assy is larger that the stock LUV front disk. This could prove to be a challange getting a correct balance of brake pressure between the front and rear. There are in line fluid restrictors that can be used but i dont know if it will solve the problem. Also, there will most likely be a clearance issue if you're running a small diameter rim. The rims may not fit around the calipers.
2nd, In certian states, an emergency brake must be functional to legally drive on the road. Getting calipers that have provisions for an e brake will most likely bring the price upward. And adapting or installing cables to get it to function.
Im not so sure about replacing the master cylinder. The circle track parts guy was talking like it's a must.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I wasnt thinking about it at the time but there are companies like willwood and some others that make porportioning valves which im guessing your probably going to need any way if you start changing things around. Some of them can be adjusted while you drive. All the race cars I have owned or driven had 15'' wheels and never had a clearance issue with rotors or calipers. As far as the stock master cylinder I dont know why it wouldnt work. The calipers I was planning on using are GM metric calipers. As far as the emergency brake is concerend I tossed mine.

Post up the part numbers and info if you would. As for line pressures, an adjustable proportioning valve should solve the problem. The stock two reservoir master cylinder should work fine. I've seen it in work fine with a disk brake S-10 rear. Clearance can be an issue, but you should be able to find out from the caliper manufacturer about what clearance you would need given your setup. I don't see it being a problem with most 15" or larger rims.

Parts below are from Speedwaymotors.com

IMCA Racing 91031904 STEEL BRAKE HAT, 3" OS EA $29.95

Speedway engineering 91031906 ROTOR, GM 0.81 x 11.75, 8 on 7" THRU EA $24.95
OR
Willwood ultralite vented rotors 8351600471 ROTOR, GM 0.81 X 11.75, 8 ON 7 THRU EA $32.95

IMCA Racing 91641009 '78-UP GM METRIC CALIPER BRACKET EA $9.95
OR
IMCA Racing 91641011 GM MET CLAMP-ON CALIPER BRKT EA $31.95

IMCA Racing 91031045-L GM METRIC CALIPER - LEFT EA $34.95
91031045-R GM METRIC CALIPER - RIGHT EA $34.95

Speedway rotor bolts
8352300233 ROTOR BOLT SET, 5/16 X 3/4, BOLTS ONLY Quantity 8 $3.95
8352500071-1/8 ROTOR BOLT & NUT KIT, 5/16 x 3/4, STL HATS Quantity $3.95

I added some choices as far as the rotors I didnt see that Speedway had their own brand when I looked last night. Also I added another optional Caliper bracket depending on which way you choose to go. Also I didnt include hardware in my price estimation. I didnt List brake pads either but you can get the pads at Kragen or where ever for about 20 bucks. I chose the parts for the GM metric type calipers The older style is available also for around the same price but I decided to go with the metric set up.

After losing what I typed in 3 times while trying to post part numbers I allmost forgot

91031355 Speedway Proportioning Valve, Knob Style EA $32.95

And also if you want to make your interior look confusing to people that dont know anything I would add
Brake Pressure
Gauge Panel
2-5/8" liquid filled brake pressure gauges with panel. Quickly and accurately displays the amount of brake bias.

Dash mount.91331803 BRAKE PRESSURE GAUGE EA $89.95

I think that covers just about everything minus the lines

sounds interesting. I would like to do something with my 9" and dump the drums...

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Resident lurker

as soon as I get ready to do my rear end in april after the meet I am going to order the parts

doesnt matter if the diameter of the rear rotors is bigger than the fronts. is all about the proportioning valve as stated above. BTW my old LUV had willwoods in rear and stock disks up front and it had TOO MUCH stopping power. it locked up too easy even with my decent foot control. I will probably end up doing willwoods rear and aerospace front on my 78 but i will also be installing anti-lock too.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears

there is allways the option of changing to a tilton mastercylinder set up you can go from 3/4 bore to 1 1/8 bigger the bore the less pressure applied to the caliper.

Here is a cheep way for rear disc brakes. I used the calipers with the cables and mount bracket off of a 85 Olds Toronado and the rotors from the front of a 75 Toro. that i cut down to the .990 size of the 85 rotors but now these rotors are mutch lighter, you can use the 85 rotors but they are the same as the front ones and they are heavy. I also cross drilled them. Due to the right hand cable is way long i used another left hand cable to work withmy setup.(i am using a pinto e-brake lever asy.) I slotted the bolt holes the machined the axles so the rotors would slide on this is only a mater of a few thou. as they were pretty close fit anyway. O and this set up on a 9" Ford rear and the brackets almost bolt on ,i had to cut two mount holes off and used 1/4" spacers, the bolts fit but i weld it together anyway so there would be no flex.

I forgot to tell you this setup of calipers,brackets,cables, and rotors was only 40 dollars at the local wrecking yard. Here is one for ya ,this Toro. set up is the same as the pricer Camaro brakes.

Keep in mind that 75 V8LUV's original plan was to keep it on some kind of budget and to make the swap as simple as possible. Toronado parts can be a bit too specific and changing the master cylinder pretty much makes for a completely new braking system.
I'd like to see 75 V8LUV plan "of off the shelf" parts. Replcement parts would be a catalog order away.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

All of these brake parts you can get at any parts store even Schucks if you like. There is nothing really difficult about doing this kind of conversion except getting the axles cut down. I did mine this way so if i needed to replce any parts it was a simple trip the parts store. You can also machine the inside diameter of the rotor to as i have done this on two other cars as well. As for the master cyl. you can use the stock one if you want but you must eather gut your proportioning valve,remove it and install an ajustable one. On my truck i use a master cyl. off a Nissan 200SX as i did not want the brake booster.I don't need a proportioning valve as i have 31-18.5 tires on the back and they will not slide. This just another alternetive to the high cost of nessary parts for our truck.

My setup is 455 Buick 4 spd. 9"Ford 4.11 gears i made my trans crossmember removeable, ladder bars,leaf springs with relocted rear bushings and bottom overload removed,Toyota front hubs(5x4.5 bolt pattern,12 gal. tank and 2 batterys in rear of bed, 31-18.5 M/T tires, idrive this every chance i get .

there arent many toros around here I have seen 2 probably in the last year and one had a sign on it not for sale the other one is in such bad shape it looks like you would need a tetnis shot if you got within 5 feet of it. I chose the parts listed above for a few reasons 1. they are off the shelf items you can get through most people that sell circle track stuff ( there are atleast 3shops with in 75 miles of me) 2 The simplicity of bolting it together and welding the caliper brackets on with out being a machinest 3. for the price of what all this cost you are getting some good parts that are brand new.

I have a circle track speed shop in my town. That's why the parts guy brought up a conversion. He's done a number of conversions for both on and off track. But he makes it sound so simple and that concerns me. What he may think is a hot setup may not be a good system for a modified from stock LUV truck. He never mentioned the parts cost total. And i'm sure the system will need to be tweaked to suit the LUV.
75 V8LUV, i'd like to see everthing you're doing in detail if possible. It would be great to see this system function and to hear from someone that's doing exactly what the circle track guy is suggesting.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Well first of all I am not going to start this project for about another month so i cant get in to the details about what is actually going to be tweaked. Im hoping the only thing that I need to adjust the porportioning valve. Second of all it is a pretty simple system used by circle track racers Dirt and asphalt. You have to remember that in a cirlce track environment like I came from usually had 25-30 squirls in the main event and usually the lower half of the field were just plain out of control so this creates people running into each other and tearing off parts like wheels and you get the picture. So What these Big companies like WillWood and IMCA Racing with tons of money spend a ton of money on research to make these parts simple and fairly straitforward so that parts can be changed under yellow flags in a hurry if need be to get back on the track. I plan on using the clamp on caliper bracket and tack welding it on place for easier installation. first thing get out your rotors and hats and bolt together 8 bolts now you have your rotor assymbly. take that rotor assymbly and slide it on your axle just like the brake rotors that slide on from the factory and put a couple of lug nutz on to hold it in place. Next bolt your calipers to the brackets and figure out where they need to go and clamp and weld. That leaves you with a porprotioning valve and plumbing. Its fairly easy with simple tools and your end result are rear disc brakes with new quality parts for the fraction of a the price of an aerospace type kit. If I left anything out and you have questions I will be glad to help but I wont know 100% of everything until I get it done.

After reading your posts i got to thinking about a good friend of mine who put a set front&rear of wilwood drag race brakes on his 68 Camaro and they work great with no problems as long as you remember that the brake system was not for the street or road racing. But using circle track brakes gives the average person a very good set of brakes that will always be there when needed. My setup was done at a time that money was something to dream about and being somewhat of a junk yard junkie,aswell as i wanted to see if it would work, the key point to all of this is there are a lot different ways of doing your truck and this web posting is a very good source of info. Be yourself and adapt all the ideas to fit your project. PS If you can roam around in junkyards and you will be amazed at what you will think to work for you

Ok, here's my add to this...
I had a friend tell me a relatively inexpensive swap for discs...
Nothing is cheap when you upgrade so always keep that in mind!

I bought an 8.5 disc posi rear axle from a 79-80 Firebird.
The calipers on that set-up incorporate the parking brake within it!
Now, THAT rear axle with factory discs has a 5 on 4-3/4's bolt pattern; This is good!
My desire is to add the Seville proportioning valve(which I have) to this system; feeling that the weight and distribution #'s are relatively within what we are doing with these trucks.
The Seville axle has a 5 on 5 bolt pattern; could be good, could be bad, depending on who your axle guy is.
However, I believe that those rotors are the same as the Firebird/Trans AM; thus being relatively easy to obtain at a low cost to buy!
The backing plates are the same on these Sevilles as the Firebird units; so they are easy to locate in yards.
The Seville axle should be an 8.5 unit...
I believe also that the calipers on that axle also have the parking brake built into it; though they may be different than the Firebird units...this is yet to be determined by me!
My findings suggest that the rear parking brake cables are of different lengths between the axles made and as awell as their respective lengths; so keep this in mind!
I do think that there is an aftermarket manufacturer who can build you rear parking brake cables as needed if you application deviates from what we have here that I have in suggestion!
I am still at odds as to incorporating the power assist booster from that car or a smaller unit that will do the same thing keeping in mind clearance and fit needs!

I am waiting to get my truck here; so when it comes, I will have that 8.5 shortened and installed and then fit in the rest...
At that time I will advise all of you how it worked out.

This rear axle has backing plates that only will clear 15" rims; I guess you could use someone elses backing plates and get that inside clearance back down to clear 14" rims; but I suggest inspecting the rims you desire to use to make sure that they clear the calipers and backing plates ....

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72 L.U.V.
427 SBC-700R4
SE 9-3/8 4P TracLoc, 6-lug rear discs,
custom rear leafs, custom made aluminum radiator,
Mustang II front suspension
LUV perf parts manufacturing
My Devotion to Karl :
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