LUVTruck.com

hey

i have found 2 dj5 mail jeeps in my area and i was wondering if this was a good rear to use in a v8 luv that runs on the drag strip both of the rears are dana 44 and i can get them very very very cheep so please give me any info on the rears and on the swap thx

a Dana 44 is perty much the same thing as a 8.5" GM 10bolt. It will do whith a mild v-8 but they are C-clip axles so i wouldnt run em too long.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

A stock 44 is stronger than a 12 bolt IMO. I've had good luck with them esp. on the 4x4's. I think the center section is still used in the Corvette IRS which puts out 500hp on the Z06's

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears

As long as you keep it mild, a dana 44 will work wonders. I'm currently still in the planning stages of my 4x4 build-up, and when I do get around to it, I'll have Dana 44s front and rear. If nothing else, you can easily swap in a Dana 60, or something else that is bigger, later.

If I remeber right, my first luv had a jeep amc20 rear.

A Dana 44 is not C-clip but the Chevy 10 and 12 bolt are.

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Fitzworld
A driveway full of Full size American 4x4 iron and one
LUV Diesel long bed

thanks for all yer feed back but i am still debating if this would be a good swap. my funds$$$ are kinda low that is why i am considering the dj5 rear. do you guys think i should just hold out and build a 9 keep in mind i can get 2 of the dj5 jeeps really cheep.does any body know how hard the swap is thx again you guys are a big help.


if you guys are wondering why i ask so many questions it's because this is my first luv v8 and i am new at this so please bear with me i know ya'll will under stand

That's why we are here!!!!!!!!!! As far as your question, about how hard the swap, do you mean the rear or the whole v8 swap? If you have the tools, and basic knowledge of mechanics, its all pretty easy.

I mean the rear end swap. i know the spring perches are more than likely not going to be the same as the luv so they will have to be relocated i'm sure. but what about the pinion angle do i need to worry about that and if so how do i determine where to weld the new spring parches. about 1 month ago i broke the bell housing and i had to install an ultrabell that wasn't to bad (just alota sweatin and cursin) but a guy at the race track said that it looked like the reason the bellhousing broke was because the pinion angle was too high ( stock rearend and 3 inch lowering blocks) and another guy said it was because i used a solid trans mount wich didn't make any since because the motor mounts are solid too

it depends on what you are building the truck for. if its going to be on the strip most of the time then I would put about -5* into it (nose pointing down) and adjust - or + with a shim if necessary. if its a daily driver with occasional strip use then -2 or -3 and buy some shims to put more in on race day. The reason it matters is if you instantly put -5 in you may have a constant oscillating vibration when you are cruising the highways. I'm not sure what caused your bellhousing to break but the pinion angle would have to be pretty far off to do that.

BTW on a budget a 44 will be fine for your truck unless you are launching at 4000-6000 on slicks and a brake.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears