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 Post subject: 350 cam description.
PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 9:57 pm 
I have been reading a lot about cam results and the relationship to other installed parts. Ive had two cams out of the hole in my first V-8. close to stock. "edelbrock performer" compatible. dont spend any ccccaaaasssshhhh on performer series, if you want to go fast. I went to an Ingle cam, a little hotter. Best carb with that was the Predator. Enough of those looser grinds, though, I am posting this to tell everyone who wants cam input other than a bunch of "specs". This is;

"the perfect cam".

OK. Street/ strip. You want to drive it around. Go too lumpy and its too much effort to idle, or its cranked way up. You dont want to loose that vaccuum either. but a nice lump turns heads. I purchased a Comp Cams High Energy #XE274H-10. When the motor is warming up, you gotta watch it. once up to temp it will idle on its own, but......barely. :D i was always afraid to go with too much lump.... this cam has given me plenty of everything you want in the heart of the truck. Massive horse power, sweet response, a 1800- 6000 +- power range. Its on the edge of getting to wild, but just this side. :wink:

If any one has gone more extreme, and ran it on the street- tell me. I would love to upgrade if its worth it.

"G"


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 Post subject: cam
PostPosted: Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:57 pm 
hey 77SSLUV ,if you want a better idle and still run the big cam CRANE has a lifter that bleads off at idle ,they work great i use them in mine and run a 295 diration cam and it idles at 700rpm,only problem they are a little noisy about like a solid lifter cam if you dont mind the slight noise than they work great ,P.s.they are great for street races people dont know you have that big a cam!!!!!!.the name is CRANE HI INTENSITY HYDRAULIC LIFTERS 67.95 from summit


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:26 pm 
thanx. It does idle, just rough. that I like. Its a head turner, and beleive me, when i stuff it - it smoothes right out. I was postin this to let anyone who wants that sound and performance not to be afraid to try it like i was. i will check into those. I plan on doing up a big block next year( to start it) and will put that in the back of my head.

"G"


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 Post subject: cam
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 5:29 pm 
I used those lifters(crane hi intensity) in my brothers GTO. It has a rather large duration in a 389. It has a wonderful lope to it, really it hits pretty hard. It has a very stable idle at about 800 RPM with plenty of vacuum.


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 Post subject: cam specs
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 6:04 pm 
You guys are talking about how lopey they sound and idle speeds. But you have to also take into consideration to whats goin on there, Larger cams will always increase idle speed. Also you'll need to consider that a larger stall speed is needed to launch the vehicle properly, There are also things such as intake, carb, valve size, port volumes, combustion chamber size in cc's, compression ratios, Cubic Inches, rear wheel size, & rear end gear ratio's. Just looking at a cams specs that say, example:"Great daily driver with good idle and low end power increase." does NOT mean that is what you can expect in all situations. I run Lunati #00010 which is 230/480 @ .050" 292 advertised duration in both my Luv and my SS monte carlo. They are identicle cams but have very different effects on the overall output of the engines. due to varying components that make up the overall intake and valve train. I just thought I'd jump in and ad just a little info from experience in this area. 8)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 11:14 pm 
i totally agree. Im only trying to convince that guy out there that isnt sure if he wants to push that line with cam selection between smooth and mean. ive selected all my parts to work with the cam I listed and am satisfied. My buddies in monroe all spent a weekend swappin carbs that we picked up at the Auto swap( something everyone should attend). on an early set up i ran an edelbrock 750, Holly 850 (i think) and a predator. All had different characteristcs. the Predator was the best but i would not run it as a driver.

Im running an 1800 stall. Perfect. When I first filled the tranny I ran it for a day too full and the stall acted just like a stock torque converter. i fugured it out. noticed the truck took off a little slower than i expected, but went nuts at about 17-1800 rpm. dumped a little fluid and what a huge diff. right in the power now.
:twisted:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2002 12:31 am 
your rite on 1FASTSSMONTE you have to think of the whole package .i run a 3.89 gear 28in tire and a 3000 stall 1.75 60ft and is still livable on the street.what convertor do run in your luv and how does it 60ft?


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 Post subject: cam specs
PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2002 8:38 am 
Right now I'm running An Art Carr Industries( TORCO) Part# GMC 190 Lockup convertor in the 700 R4, Declutched of course And lightened. Stalls around 2400 rpm, Which is a little soon for my setup. But with 28" tires and 4.56:1 rear ratio it Launches like a beast. We haven't gotten OFFICIAL times yet due to the front end not being finished but the old stop watch times show low 12 sec et's, But still that is not even close to accurate. I'll keep you posted after we finish the front end. we are also in the process of finishing the rear end. the plan is a narrowed 9" and complete back half. I'll take Pics of that. That is my winter project.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2002 9:32 pm 
1fastssmonte -

Are you runnning the stock rear end at the moment?
What kind of HP are you putting out?
Is the stock rear end holding up fine?

that is enough questions I think :roll:

Thanks for the info,
Giles5


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2002 12:11 am 
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Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:47 pm
Posts: 3467
Location: Sand Bernardino, CA
I used to run an Art Carr 700R4 and converter. The converter was GREAT. The stall was exactly what they said it was supposed to be and I got one of my best 60ft. times with that converter.

The transmission is another story. No joke, I went through about 6 transmissions in 3 months. I think my motor just made too much torgue for a 700R4. Art Carr wouldn't admit that though. When they starting saying it was because of my neglegence is when things got ugly.

I got the money back from them thanks to my credit card company. Art Carr threatened to sue me but they never followed through with it.

I have one of their new catalogs. It looks like everything that I was breaking back then has been replaced with stronger aftermarket stuff on the new units. So I would guess that a new Art Carr 700R4 would probably work much better than the ones I was trying to use. And I liked that torque converter so much I'm thinking of buying another one.

_________________
If at first you don't succeed, try it like your wife told you to do it.


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 Post subject: cams
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2002 9:17 am 
Well as for the first questions, Yes, I still have the 3 times replaced rear end. I have a s-10 rear with 3.73:1 , but it seems like a waste of time to go to all that trouble. Don't get me wrong about the s-10 rear , it's just that my plans far exceed that setup. I have never built a LUV before but I did do an s-10 V8 conversion. and I've only been working on this since my first post about 3 months ago. The next plans are for a narrowed 9" back half. HORSEPOWER> the components I chose with the thoery and Desktop Dyno. all show about 425Hp. The rear is holding, But I assume that my 9" will be done just about the time this one "grenades"
I did take some pics removing the bars and will post them today.
:D I've also got to say, That all of the discussion we all have here helped my greatly. We all have something to learn, And I've really gotten so much from all of you guys. Thanks again! G


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2002 7:19 pm 
my 2 cents. I ran the stock rearend for a month, and they seem to hold up if your running a stock v8 or less. The minute I ran my first build up, I blew my rearend. :D

I went with a ford 9" , 4:56 gears, posi ( :evil: ok critics... some say there is not a ford 'posi', then it has a locker with slip plates! whatever) cost me 150 for the axle, 175 to have both ends whacked and splined, and 150 to have the "locker" installed professionally. Funny thing about narrowing a ford 9" for a luv, there are no axles left. Its all pumpkin baby! One side has a small piece of axle due to the centerline. Try adapting coil over mounts that are cut to weld right on to the round axle.

Dang thing is :snipersmile: bulletproof. didnt cost that much.


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