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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 5:04 pm 
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So my truck currently has the original 1.8 straight 4 and it's developed some really bad rod knock and possibly a cracked head. I found someone selling a 2.2 liter vortec straight 4 out of a 2000 s10 with a transmission but he doesn't want to sell the computer with it. I need to know what all I need for this swap and if I can carbonate it and somehow do the timing without the computer. I've never done anything this big before and I have to do it right cause it's my daily driver.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:54 pm 
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Look around on google about the ignition system. There is likely to be a distributor you can swap to have hei instead of a computer
A carb can be put on anything as long as you find a good way to mount it and get the right size carb for your application. There are cfm calculators online to gove you a good idea how big you need yours to be


Or you can always source a computer elsewhere but then you need an efi fuel pump. High pressure fuel lines etc..
Either way the 2.2 has a pretty good amount of aftermarket support you should have options

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:15 am 
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Thanks for the reply! After some more research I thought it might be better to do a rebuild kit http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek0633 here's one I found but it doesn't include push rods. Since I have rod knock I'll need to replace those right? My other thought was adding a turbo after this rebuild since the engine doesn't really have power. Is there any specific ones that would be an easy and effective add on? Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:17 am 
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lturner3 wrote:
So my truck currently has the original 1.8 straight 4 and it's developed some really bad rod knock and possibly a cracked head. I found someone selling a 2.2 liter vortec straight 4 out of a 2000 s10 with a transmission but he doesn't want to sell the computer with it. I need to know what all I need for this swap and if I can carbonate it and somehow do the timing without the computer. I've never done anything this big before and I have to do it right cause it's my daily driver.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:48 am 
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lturner3 wrote:
Thanks for the reply! After some more research I thought it might be better to do a rebuild kit http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek0633 here's one I found but it doesn't include push rods. Since I have rod knock I'll need to replace those right? My other thought was adding a turbo after this rebuild since the engine doesn't really have power. Is there any specific ones that would be an easy and effective add on? Thanks again!


Your rod knock will be the connecting rods. The 1.8 Isuzu is an overhead cam motor, so no pushrods. Before you purchase a kit, you would need to get the block looked at to ensure there's not extensive (expensive) damage to a cylinder wall from the knocking rod. The machinist will likely need to perform a bore, so you'll need to know what size pistons, rings, and bearings to get.

While it's at the machine shop, ask how much they'll charge to just finish it. Last motor I had done, the shop assembled the whole thing from the oil pan to the valve covers for an extra $200.

I can't answer your turbo question. Most people that want to make more power just do a motor swap since it's a pretty economical option. I'm pretty sure it's been done though. Try the search button and see what you can find.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 2:34 pm 
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Your ONLY option for bolt on easy turbo is from turbogemini. Australian company owned by the gurrent g series engine power record holder. I beliebe he is making 600whp.. You wont.. But his kits range from blow through carb to full efi. Teal knowledgeable guy

Also which 1.8 do you have? Your truck looks to be the early 7be with 4 headlights. If you have the wedge head 1.8 with intake and exhaust on the same side you cant do much of crap for power nor would it be worth it to try. If so you need an engine swap to get much more

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 4:40 pm 
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Thanks for the reply, I have a 76 I'll attach pictures because I'm not entirely sure. I have headers custom exhaust and a Weber 32/36 dgev plus some other random stuff. I assume Gemini is fairly expensive right?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 8:14 pm 
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That is the later cross-town engine and is correct for the 1976 model. Sincentives you have the header and the weber already, I would do a rebuild with a Delta cam upgrade and drive happily ever after...

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 8:37 pm 
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Sounds good, does anyone know what that bar is above my headers?


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 11:24 pm 
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That would be a A.I.R. tube. It's part of emissions. Looks like your pump and other emissions are delegated so if you rebuild remove the pipe and plug the holes.

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