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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 11:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 8:39 am
Posts: 5
Hello. I have been lurking around here reading posts for a week or so about Weber's and tuning etc. None had quite my issue though and I am still lost on this truck. So please help, move my post if not in the right area and I hope one of you has had a similar issue. I just picked up a 1980 Chevy Luv 5 spd 4x4 that was in process of being setup to be a little mud race truck. I do not have any history on the truck other than what I can see as the owner had passed away. It has an aluminum fuel cell, new head and valves/springs, Weber 38/38 outlaw, Mr. Gasket FPR, Header (rusty and needs replaced but on there), Stock intake with all emissions removed or blocked and electric inline pump.
I have removed dist. and rebuilt/cleaned, new points, checked vac advance and weight operation. Checked valve clearance, checked comp. (150 even across all 4) Set FRP to 3.5 PSI, New plugs gapped at .040, Points gapped at .016, ordered carb rebuild kit and installed from redline, set float to 18MM per redlines instructions. I have set timing all over the board back and forth trying to see where was best and it seems to be about 12-14 base with vac advance unhooked while timing.
The problem is, it will start up and idle fine, but giving it throttle in the shop (not driving under load) it will get to about 2500-3k and from there on up it will start spitting fuel up out the carb and cut out and try to pop back through the carb. No flame just fuel and air. And I still have yet to 5k RPM out of it no matter what i try with timing and fuel. Now the 2nd part is, I set it the best I can in the shop ( still not right with the fuel spitting but I can get it to rev almost al the way up) but when I try to drive it, I have nothing. I can get about 2k rpm and anything farther with the pedal get me nothing, Literally wont rev any farther past that in gear, it just almost stops running when you try to give it more gas than that.
Sorry for the long post just trying to be thorough. Hoping one of you fine folks has some insight?
Thanks,


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:07 pm
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Location: N W Arkansas
Turn the FPR down to about 2psi, see if that helps. The 38/38 is way more carb that a basically stock 1.8 engine needs, plus it was designed more for WOT performance than street driving. There are all kinds of Weber tuning procedurals for free. You may wind up having to change the jets.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 8:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2016 8:39 am
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I had thought about doing that, but trying not to waste anymore money than I have to. I have just never seen an engine reject fuel like that when all the timing was spot on. Usually it will justr drink it and blow it out the exhaust as black smoke. Or maybe even wash past the rings but never back out at you. It's very strange.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
Posts: 2825
Location: McMinnville, OR
Have you run a compression test? Just thinking that could eliminate bad valve or valve issues. You might also get a spray can of carb cleaner and spray all around the base of the carb and the intake to head joint looking for vac leaks.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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