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 Post subject: transmission problems?
PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Hello, I have a 1979 LUV 4x4. I have been having some problems with my transmission lately and was hoping for some input on what is causing it and/or how I can fix it. When shifting into 1st I have to force it in gear and also 2nd gear sometimes too. Also when putting it into reverse it grinds and I have to very quickly and aggressively force it into reverse as well. I noticed that if I start the truck and let it sit there and warm up for like 5-10 mins the transmission problem isn't as bad. Thoughts?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:38 pm 
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I'm sorry I don't know whether your clutch is cable-operated, or hydraulic.

If it's cable:
Take a look at where the cable comes through the firewall. It's just to the outside of the brake booster. If the firewall is cracked, that's probably your problem.

If it's hydraulic:
You'll see a very small reservoir and "mini" version of a master cylinder beside the brake booster. Check the fluid level. If it's low, you may be leaking fluid from either the master cylinder, or the clutch slave cylinder. This happened to my Isuzu Amigo a few weeks ago. I topped off the fluid and it gradually worked out the air bubbles and got better. Then the slave cylinder (which had been leaking) just let go and drained my fluid all over.

Let us know what you find.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 12:47 am 
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"If it's cable:
Take a look at where the cable comes through the firewall. It's just to the outside of the brake booster. If the firewall is cracked, that's probably your problem."
'79s are cable clutch, maybe it needs adjusting?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:23 pm 
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Hmm, I looked at the brake master cylinder and there were two of them (where you open it to check fluid levels) and they were both around more than "half full". But I am pretty sure it is cable operated, when I looked underneath the truck I saw a spring that was attached to the device connected to the clutch but nothing else was attached to the spring. The clutch moves the device but I couldn't find where the spring may have been attached before. I was driving today and I had just changed my oil yesterday and after I let the truck warm up it shifted smooth but after driving for around 45 minutes it started to become difficult to put in gear again. I noticed that if I jam my foot on the clutch as if I am going to push it through the floor pans it becomes slightly less difficult to put in gear. Thanks for the input guys!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:43 pm 
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LUVboat74 wrote:
Hmm, I looked at the brake master cylinder and there were two of them (where you open it to check fluid levels) and they were both around more than "half full". But I am pretty sure it is cable operated, when I looked underneath the truck I saw a spring that was attached to the device connected to the clutch but nothing else was attached to the spring. The clutch moves the device but I couldn't find where the spring may have been attached before. I was driving today and I had just changed my oil yesterday and after I let the truck warm up it shifted smooth but after driving for around 45 minutes it started to become difficult to put in gear again. I noticed that if I jam my foot on the clutch as if I am going to push it through the floor pans it becomes slightly less difficult to put in gear. Thanks for the input guys!



Definitely is the pressure plate not disengaging. It can be three things:
1. The pressure plate is bad (sometimes the diaphragm spring gets overheated or just fatigued)
2. The throwout bearing is toast.
3. The cable needs adjustment or replacement.

Has the motor ran hot? Did it come on all of the sudden?

Sometimes when it is one particular gear it could be the syncros but when reverse grinds it is usually a disengaging problem. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:50 pm 
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I agree. The 4X4's have cable operated clutches. And yes, it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging, which is what is supposed to happen when you push down the pedal.
It's a clutch problem, not a trans. problem.
You might tru adjusting it one way or the other. The adjustment is made at the double nuts, at the fire wall.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 9:01 pm 
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Well I noticed after I changed my oil and I let the truck warm up for a few minuted before I drive it that it shifts much smoother. I do not know what this means, but I think I will just monitor it and if it gets worse or the clutch goes out then I will act on it. Thank you guys for all of the input! Also I don't even know how to adjust the clutch or change the clutch or anything (I'm not all that knowledgeable about cars, but I want to learn)

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:11 pm 
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LUVboat74 wrote:
Well I noticed after I changed my oil and I let the truck warm up for a few minuted before I drive it that it shifts much smoother. I do not know what this means, but I think I will just monitor it and if it gets worse or the clutch goes out then I will act on it. Thank you guys for all of the input! Also I don't even know how to adjust the clutch or change the clutch or anything (I'm not all that knowledgeable about cars, but I want to learn)
Then learn. Please go back and re-read this entire thread, and then look at your truck some more.

First, you're thinking completely backwards:
LUVboat74 wrote:
when I looked underneath the truck I saw a spring that was attached to the device connected to the clutch but nothing else was attached to the spring. The clutch moves the device but I couldn't find where the spring may have been attached before.
The clutch doesn't move "the device". That device IS the clutch (actually, it's the clutch release arm or "fork"). The clutch doesn't move anything at all. I think what you're calling the "clutch" is actually the cable end. The cable moves "the device" (the clutch fork)

That spring attached to the clutch fork is normally attached to the transmission housing. There should be a tab with a small hole in it, and the tab is held on by one of the case bolts. The spring should hook through the small hole, but your spring's hook may have broken off. That's very common. You may be able to find another spring at a salvage yard. As long as it will hook at both ends with no slack, you should be fine. It doesn't have to be a Chevy LUV spring. And, this is not what's causing your problem.

Jack

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:27 pm 
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Joe Isuzu is correct here. As far as I have seen the Chevy LUV does not fix itself. You need a repair manual, then read it and adjust your clutch. It is a easy process, 2 wrenches and the nuts are in plane sight on the drivers side firewall next to the brake power booster. All you do is take out the slack to the correct slack measurement and then tighten the jamb nut to lock the two together. It takes all of 5 minuets.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:35 pm 
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was it the trans oil you changed?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 11:01 pm 
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mytmouz wrote:
was it the trans oil you changed?

If so what weight oil did you install?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:41 am 
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To Joe: Okay I see what you are saying I will go out and look at that here in a few minutes, and thanks for the help.

To Luvrv8: Oh okay I thought it had to deal with separating the entire driveline until now I will go and adjust it as well in a few minutes.

To mytmouz: No it was the crankcase oil, I do not even know how to replace manual transmission oils.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:35 pm 
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I took a couple of pictures I found where that spring connects to but the piece is broken, I assume I still should look into adjusting my cable?

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Last edited by LUVboat74 on Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:40 pm 
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This is what I found.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 1:31 pm 
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That is the return assist spring for your clutch arm. If the hook end is broken off the spring first try bending a new hook using a pair of locking pliers and a something like a pair of needle nose. If the end is broken from the end of the metal piece the spring hooks to just drill a new hole. If you can't repair the spring just replace it with something similar, if it's a little stronger it won't hurt, the spring assures the throwout bearing retracts fully & doesn't drag slightly against the clutch fingers. Jack is correct, this spring is not causing your shift problems, you need to check the adjustment. Either a Haynes or Chilton's manual for your truck will have a clutch adjustment procedure & pictures, not as good as a FSM but good enough in this instance. Don't try measuring the gap at the firewall, just make sure you have about 1" of freeplay without clutch resistance at the top of the pedal stroke when pushing with your fingers & make sure you multiple cycle the clutch to seat everything after every adjustment.
While you are under the truck check your tranny lube. There is a fill plug about half way up the side of the tranny- it's usually about 15/16" head- the lube should be flush with the bottom of the hole. If you wish to change it (a good idea) the drain plug is in the bottom of the transfer case. Drain the old lube, fill with 10w30 motor oil until it runs out the fill hole, takes about a gallon.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:47 pm 
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Okay I found where to adjust the clutch but I am unsure what it is you are saying when you say the top of the pedal stroke, do you mean when the clutch pedal is sitting there and how far I can push with my fingers before resistance? Also what do you mean by multiple cycle? I am sorry I am not very knowledgeable. I will check the oil in the transmission possibly tomorrow but I can't change it until I buy some more oil. Thanks again for all the help guys!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:23 am 
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See if this link works.
http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/select.aspx

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'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 6:19 pm 
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It is telling me to authorize a new session and if I have questions about my account to use the contact info on that page. :/

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:48 pm 
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It's real simple. Loosen the jamb nut on the cable at the firewall. Tighten the nut and take out all the play. Get in the truck and press the clutch pedal about 10 times. Go back to the engine compartment and loosen the adjusting nut until you have about 2/10 of a inch free play, tighten the jamb nut and your done. This should take 2 or 3 minuets. Make sure the clutch pedal bracket s not cracked, the pedal should be at a 90 degree angle to the floor. Other then getting yourself a manual I don't know how else to help you with this.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 8:21 pm 
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Okay thanks! This helps a lot!! Thanks so much guys I will go out and adjust that here shortly

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