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 Post subject: Mustang II front end
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2003 8:38 pm 
how hard is it to do? also when u guys do the V8 swap what part of the tranny and fire wall u guys hamer in?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:13 pm 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 8:38 pm
Posts: 320
Location: Georgetown TN
Highly Recommended and one of the best improvements on my truck! I can dig up the bearing number to make 11" Camaro rotors work. Calipers work also with brackets offered by many street rod places. I have a couple thousand miles on mine and love it.

I used a factory ford crossmember and it is close to the correct width.
Not easy but well worth it.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:18 pm 
i mean how hard is it to actuly put on for someone who hasnt really done much car fabing?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:16 am 
hey RATNLUV hows the offset in the front of ur truck? was it hard to get rims for it?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:53 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 8:38 pm
Posts: 320
Location: Georgetown TN
If you haven't done a lot of fab work I don't think it would be a good idea to go at it alone.
Do a search and see if you can find where I posted about it before and look at the pictures in the project gallery.
Also check out the street rod magazine's and get a list of the web address for people like Fat Man Fab,Total Cost Involved,Heidt's and they show putting one under different vehicle's. The principle is the same but you just have to measure yours as it is and get the Mustang crossmember positioned in the correct spot.
After you block the truck up level AT DESIRED RIDE HIEGHT and be sure to block the front up under the cab and not at the very front because you have to cut the frame almost into at the point where you install the frame. You will have to have the engine out and measure the wheelbase and make good notes.Then start cutting everything from the old front end off. You have alot of cutting,grinding and welding to do.
The frame is cut leaving only a couple of inches on the insde rail to make enough room to get the crossmember in. After you get the bare crossmember positioned about right you will need to put the spindles and control arms on WITHOUT THE COIL SPRINGS and get the lower control arm level with the bottom off the crossmember. Now you can start the final measuring and get it positioned to tack weld in. Triple check that is in the correct spot left to right,up and down, and rotation. Mine is shifted to the passenger side a little to help make room for the big block. I used a lot of little peices of angle for filler where the hole was to big,and because of the shape of the crossmember there is no way around this if you use a factory Ford crossmember.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:54 am 
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lives at LUVTruck.com

Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 8:38 pm
Posts: 320
Location: Georgetown TN
Wheels are not a problem.WELD offers them I got mine at Summit

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 7:57 pm 
thanks Rat ill do some reserch also where u get ur front end? junkyard? or what?


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