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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:40 am 
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just some info somebody might like. I had to pick all the parts sepretley. the kit with the same parts is $65 plus shipping. but if you piece everything togeather its around $35. Its my first luv its a 1980 4x4 stake bed. I will post some pics. also I've been looking on the best way to tackle the job. I'm using the forum search function. and I think pulling the motor and trans is what I'm going to have to do. I dont know if all 80 4x4's have a welded trans cross member but mine does.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:06 pm 
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Location: N W Arkansas
-Drain the tranny/t-case assembly.
-Remove both driveshafts & the starter(through the fender well is probably easiest).
-Remove the speedo cable(don't pry on the hold-down tab), both shifters, any wires attached to the tranny.
-Loosen the clutch cable all the way at the adjuster, remove from the clutch arm, remove the clutch return spring(s).
-Remove the tranny mount, support the engine under the oil pan or from above.
-Take the part of the t-case that bulges out off the side of the tranny(optional, but it makes removing the tranny easier).
-Remove the tranny to engine nuts & bolts(they need to go back in the same spot). As the tranny pulls back enough to clear the mounting studs rotate the tranny 90 degrees clockwise, this will alow you to pull the tranny clear of the engine with the tailshaft housing above the welded crossmember(without the outer t-case housing removed this is very difficult). This also allows the starter bulge to clear the tunnel sheet metal as the tranny is withdrawn further.
-As the tranny input shaft clears the clutch drop the tranny front down & pull forwards under the engine until the tailshaft clears the crossmamber, lower the unit & position out of the way of removing the clutch from the supported engine.
-Reverse to install.
When trying to pull the engine & tranny together the oil pan tends to hit the front diffy before the tranny clears the crossmember & can be tilted sharply down enough to allow the oil pan to clear. It's been done, but I would pull the tranny.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Location: N W Arkansas
When you get your parts make sure you have the 8.5" disc & pressure plate, the 2wd 8" setup has a different bolt mounting pattern to attach to the flywheel than the 4wd setup.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 4:38 pm 
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thanks for the help I'm gonna go try it. and on the parts I made sure I oredered the 8.5 inch friction disk an 4x4 pressure plate. I will measure it just to be sure when I get it tomorrow .


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:02 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:25 am
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oldestisuzuist wrote:
-Drain the tranny/t-case assembly.
-Remove both driveshafts & the starter(through the fender well is probably easiest).
-Remove the speedo cable(don't pry on the hold-down tab), both shifters, any wires attached to the tranny.
-Loosen the clutch cable all the way at the adjuster, remove from the clutch arm, remove the clutch return spring(s).
-Remove the tranny mount, support the engine under the oil pan or from above.
-Take the part of the t-case that bulges out off the side of the tranny(optional, but it makes removing the tranny easier).
-Remove the tranny to engine nuts & bolts(they need to go back in the same spot). As the tranny pulls back enough to clear the mounting studs rotate the tranny 90 degrees clockwise, this will alow you to pull the tranny clear of the engine with the tailshaft housing above the welded crossmember(without the outer t-case housing removed this is very difficult). This also allows the starter bulge to clear the tunnel sheet metal as the tranny is withdrawn further.
-As the tranny input shaft clears the clutch drop the tranny front down & pull forwards under the engine until the tailshaft clears the crossmamber, lower the unit & position out of the way of removing the clutch from the supported engine.
-Reverse to install.
When trying to pull the engine & tranny together the oil pan tends to hit the front diffy before the tranny clears the crossmember & can be tilted sharply down enough to allow the oil pan to clear. It's been done, but I would pull the tranny.



thanks for the help it really does have to spin 90 degrees to come back far enough.


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