-Drain the tranny/t-case assembly. -Remove both driveshafts & the starter(through the fender well is probably easiest). -Remove the speedo cable(don't pry on the hold-down tab), both shifters, any wires attached to the tranny. -Loosen the clutch cable all the way at the adjuster, remove from the clutch arm, remove the clutch return spring(s). -Remove the tranny mount, support the engine under the oil pan or from above. -Take the part of the t-case that bulges out off the side of the tranny(optional, but it makes removing the tranny easier). -Remove the tranny to engine nuts & bolts(they need to go back in the same spot). As the tranny pulls back enough to clear the mounting studs rotate the tranny 90 degrees clockwise, this will alow you to pull the tranny clear of the engine with the tailshaft housing above the welded crossmember(without the outer t-case housing removed this is very difficult). This also allows the starter bulge to clear the tunnel sheet metal as the tranny is withdrawn further. -As the tranny input shaft clears the clutch drop the tranny front down & pull forwards under the engine until the tailshaft clears the crossmamber, lower the unit & position out of the way of removing the clutch from the supported engine. -Reverse to install. When trying to pull the engine & tranny together the oil pan tends to hit the front diffy before the tranny clears the crossmember & can be tilted sharply down enough to allow the oil pan to clear. It's been done, but I would pull the tranny.
_________________ '78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78. '87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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