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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 9:41 pm
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Location: Portland, OR
Hey there all. I finally got around to swapping carbs, man is it a HUGE improvement, looks better, sounds better, runs way way way better. I just wanted to post photos of my setup to get approval and or advice on anything I may have done right or wrong. Everything seems to be doing just fine, the only problem I have been experiencing is some dieseling issues. When I turn off the ignition (this is only on occasion) the engine seems to try and start back up with a quick two second rev that gets no higher than 3k rpm then it dies - Is this a big issue that needs to be fixed asap or is it okay aside from being annoying? Also what is the correct idle speed/ what should my timing be at???

I do not have a fuel pressure regulator hooked so I just hooked up the fuel return line in a manner that wouldn't allow incoming gas to siphon back to the tank. I also made a slight fabrication to the air filter and added an extra 1/8" bulk head with a barbed side so that I could have what used to be the the hose that ran from the intake manifold to the idle compensator and thermo sensor lead to the new air filter. The EGR is NOT plugged, the vaccum advance is hooked up and everything seems to be running just fine.

My throttle bracket is jimmy rigged and made from the old bracket and various hardware my brother who is bike mechanic had lying around, it's ugly but very functional and solid.

I also plugged up the holes where the the air injection rail used to be with spark plugs, I accidentally cross threaded the penultimate hole, bummer, it is sealed fine though. I am eventually going to have my brother just MIG the holes from the old fittings up and Ill use those later.

OHHH, and funny. Despite the manual warning in bold font remove rags from the intake before installation, I still accidentally did it. I was reall lucky because I managed to fish them out without removal by using some high tensile fencing wire with a hook... sometimes shortcuts do pay off, PHEW hahahaha.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 5:51 pm 
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Location: Camarillo, CA
Hose clamps on the return fuel line should be added. I personally like to keep all of my fuel filters on the low pressure side. Plastic fuel filters on the high pressure side have caused a lot of VW bugs to burn to the ground.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:19 pm 
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Location: Portland, OR
Luvrv8 wrote:
Hose clamps on the return fuel line should be added. I personally like to keep all of my fuel filters on the low pressure side. Plastic fuel filters on the high pressure side have caused a lot of VW bugs to burn to the ground.


By this you mean I should switch the fuel return and the fuel hose? Or move the filter somewhere else along the fuel pump to inlet hose???


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:52 pm 
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The stock location is under the bed by the fuel tank before the fuel pump. There is a bracket there to hold it. Many do it the way you did I just like my filters outside of my engine bay, it's one less thing to cause a big problem. The fuel return line on the carb looks like its just pushed on, a hose clamp is cheap insurance of a fuel leak.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Location: Portland, OR
Ahhhh, When I bought this truck two years ago that's where the filter was. Had you not mentioned it I never would have known that wasn't the original placement. Thanks for the pointers, Ill get to it asap.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:34 pm 
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my luv has a fuel filter in the exact same spot as yours. also has the one in the back by the tank on the bracket.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:55 pm 
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So, sure enough, I go out to put that hose clamp on and I'm drippin' a quart an hour at the outlet for the return line... whoops.
Also I figured out the diesling issue, pretty simple. I had my throttle cable adjusted to tight, so tight that my idle speed screw wasn't in contact with the throttle and idle speed was being held at 1300 rpm by the cable itself. loosened that puppy up and adjusted my mixture/timing/idle speed I have it idling at 900 now and the timing at 8 degrees. Are those specs appropriate for th 32/36?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 2:08 pm 
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Follow the lean best idle adjustment instructions here for the proper setup of a weber.

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm

That will also tell you if the jetting is correct for the truck.

As for the timing, I tended to go a little more advanced than 8BTDC, but it can depend on the truck and how it is set up. If the EGR valve is taken off or not working correctly for example, then you are more likely to get pinging/detonation issues with the timing advanced beyond 8 or so.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 8:52 pm 
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Location: Denver, Colorado
Looks good. Webers are awesome. I noticed a definite improvement when I did mine, however, I HIGHLY reccomend you now get one of Mokadeath's Offenhauser intakes for it. Biggest single improvemrnt I have made thus far. The Weber will bolt right up to it and all of your linkages should work the same too. Pretty much a direct swap for the stock intake.
I did the Weber on the stock intake first too, and swaping to the Offy was cake.
(no, I don't get a commission on the intakes, :wink: , I am just really impressed with mine, and he just got a new run in stock....)

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Image1980 4x4, 3" body lift, G180/G180 head, Pacesetter header, Offenhauser Dual Port Intake, Weber 32/36, Electronic Ignition, Glasspack & a Smokestack.


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