LUVTruck.com

ok so over the past few months i have been getting this luv back in to running shape... or so i thought... and after much work i come to find out that has been some hinky wiring... and some other mechanical issues...

well after sorting all of those issues it was time to deal with some of the ease of use aspects of the truck... no to mention i have been having a few issues with the truck running smoothly over the past few weeks and a decline in the fuel mileage (from 32 mpg to friday night i put $38 in the tank and it got me ~120 miles so roughly 12mpg) so this weekend they were running a grand opening sale at the new junk yard in town so i thought this to be a great time to pick up some well needed parts... that and my brother needed a few parts for his car...


so $50 all you can carry... got a distributor off an 86 pup (or what was marked as a pup turned out to be a toy pup will work as a core) carb off a 1.9 85 trooper (its a dcp where as mine was a dch), grabbed a bench seat, a hatch for my brothers justy, some rims for the front, and a few other misc parts for the truck and his justy... got the nearly 200# load across the line and then in to the truck.... started heading home and the truck was missing a sputtering more in the higher revs then it had been below 3000k rpm got home parked the truck unloaded went to start the truck again and nothing crank and crank and after pushing the gas pedal through the floor the engine spun to life blowing a huge cloud of black soot...

so keeping the truck above 3k rpm i managed to get it in to the shop and poped the hood readjusted the points and started tweaking with the carb (to notice that there was an air leak between the upper and middle portion of the carb and that i had no engine rpm chang when adjusting the air/fuel mixture screw so i pulled it off and re torqued all the bolts.. re installed and again this same issue (minus air leak) except the truck would fire with the accelerator half way down instead of all the way down again the exhaust is blowing clear but is sooty as hell. and will not hold steady rpm...

so i know that the head gasket is probably warped and needs to be replaced but with that problem i would be blowing blue (oil) or white (coolant) smoke

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... block-long

so then here are my choices i can pull a motor from the junk yard for $140 to use as a core charge on ^ long block from o'rillys

or

i can bust this motor down and send it out to the machine shop and have it ported and polished have the head, or block shaved some how find the crank shaft out of a chevette (or more commonly known as a g161) send the cam in to be re ground, some how find a set of double springs that cah handle the extra force at higher rpm's.... either way im looking @ about 2k and no truck for a few weeks/months

money not being a factor at this point.... beings that i will have to take time off of work to get this stuff taken care of...

which would be the best choice? i can turn a wrench and read a book and pulling this motor and dropping the new one in will not be an issue... just means my hands will be forced to buy some new tools and some where be forced to buy a 5 speed transmission ... thats always a bad thing right

so i guess to say is it worth taking a shot at a motor sold by a "box" store or some how coming up with this Frankenstein motor?

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Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

I would go the long block route, as downtime/walking should be minimized. Mods rarely go as planned...

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

got the truck running smoothly the original carb i have no clue what happened with it.. but this second one was a choke issue aswell as some herculean flattened the $417 out of the air/fuel mixture screw swapped over the one from original carb and it started right up....

i definably rev quicker in gear from 1k to 4k rpm in gear how ever at 4k i slug out on power... might have to switch over the jetting.... the amount of black soot has defiantly decreased (though im sure there will still be some for a few miles down the road as the old stuff gets blown out)....

This engine is going to be pulled sooner then later because its reaching that 2k mile mark and well its much easier to replace now then it is later... i dont think itll last much longer

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Friends don't let friends drive stock...
76 mikado, emissions delete, dual alternator, rejetted 1.9 carb swap, non factory body lines
soon non points distributor, single (semi sealed beam) head light conversion

If you can the motor you got as a core rebuild it.It would be cheaper in the long run.You would be able to send the cam off to Delta or whomever you choose.Take it to a reputable machine shop.Have the block cooked and all the surfaces machined.I would have a 3 angle valve job on the head along with have the head decked and checked for cracks. I you can have the bigger valves put in.I would have it balanced too...your engine will last longer and it is cheap horsepower.Replace all of the frost plugs.If it is a good machine shop they will stand behind it for a certain amount of mileage.

the stock carbs = junkola
i rebuilt my motor for not much $$$ a bit over a year ago... i hammer on it like these motors should never see and it hasnt failed me yet... the stock carb and distributor were my only 2 stumbling points. now that they are gone it runs like a top.. i can wind it up to 5-6k pretty quick in the lower gears.. i have noticed mine doesnt start to really pull until 3500ish then you can actually hear it open up more and change tone as it pulls harder.. maybe i need to adjust my weber a bit

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

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