LUVTruck.com

Looking to guage how difficult the swap is...

Searched around, seems like powerful little motors that you can turbo the snot out of without much difficulty. But how easy? Have one at a yard for 300 so its tempting.

Dr frank, pm sent btw

I had 4 different Buick V-6 motors under the hood (1 odd fire, 1 even fire 3.8s and 2 4.1s). I can cleanly state that the Buick setup is leaps and bounds better than the stock 1.8. Once fitted correctly to the truck, it's a wonder that they were'nt offered as a factory option.
I never went to a turbo, I opted to make the jump to SBC V-8.
If you can provide a little more info about the motor you found, we can steer you in the right direction.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

All he said was its running, 3.8 n/a out of I think a regal. What do I need to know? I can always ask him. Oh and carb setup

Odd fire 3.8 motors from 75 to mid 77 had H.E.I. with vacuum advance. Mid 77 thru 79 were even fire motors with H.E.I. with vacuum advance. 80 to 84 Buick V-6 motors Had H.E.I. with out vacuum or mechanical advance because the computer controls.
Odd and Even fire engines with vacuum advance are easy to tie into the LUV wiring. Stock carbs will function correctly. 80 and later engines only work with the computer. The carb and distributor will not work correctly without it. You can ditch the computer/carb/distributor setup and hunt down an even fire, vacuum advance distributor and a carb that will bolt down to the intake and make the setup as a mid 77 to 79.
Ask the Yard guy if the distributor has a vacuum canister on the distributor. Also, the year of the car. It's a longshot, but if it's a computer controlled engine with a 4 bbl, then it's a 4.1 motor.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

So odd or even fire would be a better bet?

It comes down to having the right distributor for the right motor. You can't mix distributors between a odd and even fire. 80 to 84 motors can run even fire with even fire distributors and a conventional carb by doing away with the computer.
As a side note... 79 and later motors have better heads (more airflow). Also, 4.1 motors have aluminum spreadbore intake manifolds that flow almost as well as any aftermarket intake but can be really cheap if you can hunt one down in a wrecking yard. It's something to think about. Running a 450 holley 4 bbl can keep you happy while you get the plans and parts together for the turbo build. Headers are the biggest problem. You'll most likely have to build a custom set to run a conventional motor. Stock exhaust manifolds on later year 3.8 and 4.1's are stupid and bulky but you can technically fit them to the motor/truck. I ran stock oddfire 3.8 manifolds on my Buicks and modified them a bit to fit the 4.1 motors. I had no choice at the time.
My time with the Buicks were great. I just got the bug to have more power. In a way, I wish i had another LUV just so i could build another V-6 setup. It fit and worked so well.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

The 3.8 engine you have found is likely the new version from a FWD Regal, not the older version found in RWD vehicles. The newer ones even came supercharged, but from what I remember there were problems finding a tranny for a RWD conversion, they had a strange bellhousing bolt pattern or something of the sort.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.

ok, ok...

if your determined to do this, understand the buick is not cheap to build. and it is not always user friendly.

the buick differs from other engines in one major way. they do not make horsepower. they make torque. Like a tractor at that, using this effectively is the key to this engine.

OK... we we need to determine is the year of the engine you found first.

on the drivers side, underside of the drivers head, the casting numbers should be along the bell housing. what you want should have a nice big "3.8" or "4.1" or "SG1" or "109"

EVEN FIRE, 78-87 is what you want... dont worry about distributor- it will need to be recurved anyways and so its of no major concern right now. dont really much pay any attention to the rest of the engine other than the assecory bracket system that will work for your application. I have found the EARLY brackets from a ODD FIRE, work the best in the LUV if your not retaining the AC. Just ensure you have a healthy bottom end.

as for mounts, I can supply what you need to bolt it in.

Trans is up to you, but should apply to year of engine. like stated above,ODD and EVEN use the same bellhousing, LATE uses a *60 bellhousing - but that is of no concern as I have the adapters to allow use of any GM patteren trans. Behind the buick I strongly suggest 200-4R. its stronger then the 700 and has better 1-2 gear spread. but TH350/400 is ok, powerglide is not recommended.

Rear Axle, this is the key prize to the buick. 3.08s to 3.43s I reccomend, I run huge turbo and 3.31s are where im at. remember, it may only make 450 horse power, but will lay down 875 ftlbs of torque. S10 rear is your best bet. I have gears in stock.

I carry the radiator in stock thats good to 650 hp and bolts into stock location.

as for performance upgrades, anything your mind could imagine is available for you here. we specialize in buick V6 performance so the skys the limit. I have a Turbo system that is ready to go for a buick onsale for 450 bucks, includes distributor and intake!

Anyways, I wish you luck - the buick is notorious for its fair share of headaches.

my only reason for running one, is the challange associated with racing this engine. but the winning pool is very sweet when your in front with 231 cubes.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

Ok so I need year of engine, and to try and find a rear end. Would a 9" rear work? Would be easier to find. What about the intercooler for running high boost?

And can I use my stock 4spd for the time being?

dont worry about intercooling and all of that. thats last of concerns.

right now, determine what your said engine year and size is. from there we can decide if it is a suitable platform to build from. I would suggest a GM 7.5 S10 rear. its supprisingly durable under the light weight of the the luv and buick.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

no your stock 4 speed wont last behind the buick. not to mention the pain of adapting.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

Ill call and ask, as well as the 200 tranny, if not would a th-350 hold fine until she starts running 1/4 milers?

the TH350 would be fine, but gearing in the rear will become much much more critical with only 3 speeds.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

Ok what kind of gearing would I be looking for at that point? You have them in stock? Ill start calling around for an s10 rear end. Would I then have to switch to 5 lug in front since the rear would have the axels and spindles with 5 lug or am I being a noob? So am I going to have to somehow fab mounts and crossmembers for the tranny? Whether it be a turbo or a 200...

a 5 lug swap in the front would be recomended. I only suggest an s10 rear due to its ease of swap, and because of its gear availability. if you want to keep the stock rear, you can. but an overdrive trans is mandatory.

as for fabbing mounts, I carry all of those too. trans and engine.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

Ok so the motor mounts bolt into stock location. I just need a welded for the tranny and motor crossmembers right?

So if I can't find an s10 I need an overdrive, unless I did ford 9, but would be more difficult because of driveline right?

nope. everything bolts in. trans and engine. no welding at all.

well if you cant get a stock luv rear with 3.42s or lower, yes i reccomend a different rear. a 9" is a perfectly fine swap. but finding one narrow enough for the luv is difficult. Currie makes a bolt in S10 unit that is a narrowed 9" but the cost is $$$.

either way you go, you need a drive-shaft made. so I reccomend to go with what ever is easiest for you to handle.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

you know, your close enough, you could come see the system and brackets for yourself. have a beer or 2 and party the night up.

or you chould just call, its easier to go over the details then typing..

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g