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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 11:40 am 
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I'm thinking maybe I need to change that brass fitting to a three-way in order to accommodate all three lose ends. That fitting you circled, Uthe, is where I planned to connect the vent pipe on the engine top cover. That's the right way to do it, right? All I know is the stock air filter is connected to that line so I plan to use it.

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 2:06 pm 
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FullaLuv wrote:
That fitting you circled, Uthe, is where I planned to connect the vent pipe on the engine top cover.


Ahh... that makes sense! I put a seperate filter on my valve cover. I just plug things till they seem to work, then start guessing/checking till it runs better... which I guess is probably not the "right" way to do it at all anyway.



Does anybody know if there would be an issue with me plugging the gas tank breather line (or whatever that red line that we've been talking about) into that spot on the carb. filter?

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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 6:33 pm 
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No. It's just a much bigger hole in the filter housing than what is needed for the tiny vent hose. I think mine is just loose on my 4X4. I haven't had any problems.

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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2008 7:28 pm 
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I decided I needed an elbow for the Weber air filter vent line to look decent, so I went and got a few hose clamps at the same time. I had to go to three stores, Schucks, NAPA, then Big Wheel before I found the right size, ½", and then I changed my mind after studying the inside of the air filter, I've decided I do need to connect the red line to the air filter. Since the red line is ¼", I've discovered that it will just insert into that ½" rubber heater hose I got. So I changed the elbow to a tee. I got some nice rubber caps for the plugging off of at least two vent tubes coming from the manifold. Another cap will actually go over another vent on the Weber that is capped off with a brass screw already. So I'm all ready. I'll probably do the deed tomorrow.


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Everything is ready to put the Weber on :smt041

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:58 pm 
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I got it in, and whew! What a difference. It idles perfect, and has no hesitation at any range. I took it out on Hwy. 18 and got it up to 85 mph, before I backed off on the pedal. Wow, the handling is a lot different, because of the response. You can tell when the second barrel opens, because the sound of the engine changes to a whole new symphony of sound, and the torque is so much more powerful, I LUV it. I barely have to feather the gas pedal to maintain whatever speed I'm going, and I can sense the fuel economy already. The wife was very impressed and she liked the sound too.

I started out easily enough, disconnecting the throttle line, and removing the air filter. I asked my son to take some photos, and I ran into some unexpected delays while installing. Ten-year-olds don't like to dawdle, so he wasn't there all the way through. Some of the photos were taken by me.

First problem was I can't find any voltage off the wiring connection that was originally on my Hitachi. With the key on, none of the four wires in that plug are hot. I don't know which wire to connect to, so I left the choke disconnected. It's over 80° F. today anyway. I adjusted the choke to straight up and down, and tightened it there.

Another issue was the throttle linkage plate that Weber supplied, the one that holds the cable. That had to be extended to fit the Hitachi throttle cable lever, and the location of the cable holder on the top engine cover. All it took was a wire-feed welder, a vise, file, and a hacksaw. I ended up changing the plan I had to connect to a tee under the air filter, (since there wasn't enough room), and found another location for it. The pressure regulator was installed below the float bowl, and I left the old fuel filter aside, since I had installed a new filter next to the tank, and I'm good with that. All the adapter plate mounting bolts were given Loctite® ThreadLocker Red, and I put the gaskets on dry. It started up really fast after installation. I thought it would take a little longer cranking, but no. A quick adjust ment on the mixture screw, a tweak of the idle adjustment, and I was on my way. Done. It's awesome, and I wanna go ride it some more. Talk to y'all later.


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Here I am ready to install...

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The large port is from the top engine cover, and the small port is from the three-way valve on the firewall

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The Hitachi does have a similar throttle shaft flat bolt

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Removing the throttle cable

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Ready to remove

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The bare intake manifold

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The adapter plates were ground flat; one...

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Two...

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Three...

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All four sides!

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First plate installed

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Second plate installed, and studs going in

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Applying Loctite® ThreadLocker to all bolts

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Mount for cable was not going to work...

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Improvised bracket works nicely

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All together now

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A view level with the adapter plates

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The pressure regulator installed

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Overall view

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You can barely see the white adapter between the ¼" hose to the ½" hose

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 1:56 pm 
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Sorry all the dates were wrong on those photos. I was using my wife's camera, and I didn't know she had replaced the batteries. The date was the same day as the post, May 24.

There's still one line unattached. It's the fuel return line, and I capped it off with a screw. There is a location on the Weber to attach it, but Redline Weber neglected to include that fitting. I have no idea what it cost. Can't call Weber until business hours. It's running fine, so I might leave it as it is.


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Here's a closer view of the improvised bracket for the throttle cable

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 5:31 pm 
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why did you have to modify it ? it should of worked fine the way it was (the throttle bracket)

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 6:46 pm 
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The difference between the throttle levers made extending the position of the throttle cable mandatory. With the one lever I had installed on the bench the bracket would have worked just fine, but because I wanted to use the Hitachi lever, it was bell-shaped, and extended further away from the carb. A longer bracket was needed, and I think it looks real nice. I'm going to take it off and paint it soon though.

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Another view of the bracket

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Yup, one more.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 10:42 pm 
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i dont under stand? i used the one from the luv carb on mine for the cable ...
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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:13 pm 
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Hey Fulla. I'm worried about your hose connections there.
The valve cover puts out quite a bit of pressure. It's ok for it to be going into the air filter and getting burned by the eng. But the red hose is sucking air from the filter to the gas tank. So the way you have it hooked up, the gas tank is kind of getting force fed oily air from your valve cover.
I don't know if it could be a problem or not.

From reading your thread, you are thinking that both those hoses were sucking air from the filter. The red one is, but the valve cover one pushes air out of the eng. not in. Idle your eng. with that hose off and you'll see what I mean.
I and most of us, just put a little mini K&N looking filter in that valve cover hole to let it breath and not spray oil all over the eng. bay.

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Last edited by rondog on Sun May 25, 2008 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:15 pm 
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ctmandu wrote:
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Cat, Where is the metal tube on top of your valve cover going to up front?

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 11:40 pm 
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Your throttle lever and my throttle lever are not identical, even if they both came off Hitachi carbs. Maybe they were different years, I don't know. I know that the current condition my bracket is in it will be just fine. It's longer than before and very strong. I did take your advice not to cut the cable and use the lever from the Hitachi. It just so happens my lever was different. The operation is very satisfactory.

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Do you see some difference in the lever? Also notice I put two nuts on the throttle shaft to secure the lever to the shaft.

Rondog, since fluid (air) always takes the path of least resistance, any oil that does make it's way to the tee is going to be sucked into the intake manifold filter before it ever makes it's way to the tank. I think the result I've ended up with is a good one, and I'll let you know if I see any oil getting anywhere. There wasn't any oil getting to the stock filter, so I'm not expecting to have any coming from the engine top cover now either. Catman's hose routing is different than mine, and he had trouble with his engine throwing oil out, so he added some kind of collector/recycler for it, I'm not sure what it was. Maybe I got the hoses right, and you guys should hook up like me. I don't know yet. All I know is I love driving it, and it runs so much better now, I'm just looking for any excuse to go somewhere. With gas going for $4 a gallon these days, it takes some time to test these things out!

For a brief moment yesterday, before I installed the filter or the vent lines, I started the engine with the new carb. I covered the hole at the top of the engine cover with my thumb, so I know about the air blowing through there. As long as it doesn't leak, doesn't prevent any systems from working, then it must be okay to leave it the way I have it.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 12:52 am 
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yes yours is different , maybe the year made a difference? not sure..

rondog: its for an oil catch can... when i rebuilt the motor and put the hot cam in i also had a high volume oil pump i put in so it was to much for just a breather there...
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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 9:56 am 
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Oh, very cool. You did a nice clean install on it.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 9:56 pm 
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:signhijacked Hey as I was saying, I didn't get the electric choke connected. Okay I just need to go do my homework and check the electrical diagram. Ugh. Anyone know the correct wire to hook up the one terminal on my DGEV?

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Here's the terminal on the electric choke and the connector is visible behind it; no power there.

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Both the cable and the spring have slack in them at idle.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 10:06 pm 
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You could steal power from your windshield washer. It has 12volts when the key is on. Just what you need.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 10:10 pm 
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Hey that's a thought, a very good thought!! :lol: I'll look at that maybe in the next day or so. Thanks Rondog.

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 12:29 am 
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I used a 4 wire plug on the wiring harness near the rear center of the engine attached to the firewall that didn't have anything plugged into it. As long as it is only hot with the key on, it really doesn't matter. Just upgrade the fuse on whatever you connect it to, preferrably to a 30amp (aren't they all?...lol) so you don't pop any fuses.

And like Cat, I had to run an oil catch tank to catch the excess oil from my high output oil pump and my Delta Cam in my Impulse 1.9 g200z engine. Which BTW, is getting a cam upgrade tomorrow AM. I drove my Luv up to Delta a weekago and had a sit-down with the guys there, and we came up with a custom grind suitable for my Impulse 1.9 g200z that should increase my hp and torque, and not have any valve/piston top clearance problems. The head honcho of the shop did it himself and only charged me $48.00. Damn nice guys - all of those Delta guys. I'm pretty stoked to install it and see how it does.


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 7:53 am 
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The 4-wire plug has no power on any terminal. I was wondering if it came on later, when the engine became warmed up. All my six fuses are 15 amp. I'll look for power from the washer pump circuit.

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 1:34 pm 
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Quote:
All my six fuses are 15 amp.
8O

I personally always install all 30 amp fuses just because I hate changing popped fuses in the dark when it's raining like the dickens. And from my 50 amp alternator to my battery, I have 2 bigger blade-type 60 amp fuses inline, instead of those darn pesky fuseable links. Plus I have a braided ground strap installed going from my engine to the truck's body. My battery was a bit spendy too, but IMHO you get what you pay for, and this way that jerk Murphy and his dumb law doesn't worry me much.

Ya see, ya just gotta keep those little electrons flowin'...lol


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