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Can anyone confirm or direct me to someone who can confirm the differenceds in balancers ? I have an early balancer on a 92' block with a vortec style roller cam . I was told that there was 0* in the late 60's early 70's , which means key way should be straight up as would the timing mark and later design would be 12* puting the timing tab a little farther down on the driver side with the key way straight up (what most are used to ) . And the newer "vortec " style blocks that are something like 40* . I have been running my motor at 55* all in by 3000 on my balancer . this puts the initail at 42* This works out in my best estimate to be around 2* initial . I put 67* inital (on my balancer ) in which I work out to be 14* and had no starter drag , the motor busted right off hot and a stumble off idle is now gone . My estimate is that I now have the intial at 14* . Does this make any sense to anyone . I believe I have the wrong balancer on the motor . It is balanced to the assembly and until the new short block is ready I intend to run it . Just looking for opinions & help as I feel it is laying down up top and more power is left .

Well it seems like you have an idea of what your talking about..

Usually when getting that in-depth into something I wont put my money into a forum. Although I would still post it, I would take a grain of salt with whatever is said.

Usually with something like this I will ask someone like Professor Overdrive. Every time I have asked a question they have came back with in a few days with a professional answer and back it up with logic.

Just my .02

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Did you mark the balancer for TDC when you degree'd the cam?keep in mind that the older balancers have the rubber band that bonds the outer ring to the hub,I have personally seen them move (twist) and throw the timing mark off.I like the rattler balancer because there is no chance of the mark moving.

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72 luv v-8 owned since 16!
240" rear engine dragster
traded the circle track cars for a blown 496 chevy
[color=#FF8000]
29 dodge 4 dr sedan (project)
84 ranger 2wd "tuff truck" with 350 sbc

I'll vote for an aftermarket balancer.

Even with an aftermarket balancer, you still need to check it, but you need the SFI specs to be legal anyway.Get # 1 up, and scribe your balancer at the 0 mark of what ever pointer you're using. Then paint the scribe mark white so it'll show up easier in the timing light. If you get a known good dial advance timing light, you should be good to go.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

JFYI the keyway is almost always in the same position, it's the size and the placement of the timing marks through the years that are different that is why there are about 4 locations for the timing tab. mytmouz has the best solution for your current problem and it will work as i have had to repair this problem on other peoples motors before.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

I have an aftermarket SFI balancer . and your correct about the keyway . I will bring it to top dead center and put a timing tape on it . I have to work out timing issues before I can spray it . I was down after neck surgury and had degreed the cam , but the timing cover had not come in . A buddy of mine set the heads on and torqued them and we set the valves cold . Later I got the cover and installed it and the balancer . Moral of the story , ALWAYS VERIFY TDC WITH MARKS ON BALANCER . Scary to think it has run 11.65 like this and I might find FREE power . Sure would be nice to see 11.49 .

Iv'e never had luck with the tape staying on,but atleast it will give you a place to scribe if you don't have a advance timing light

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72 luv v-8 owned since 16!
240" rear engine dragster
traded the circle track cars for a blown 496 chevy
[color=#FF8000]
29 dodge 4 dr sedan (project)
84 ranger 2wd "tuff truck" with 350 sbc

I have made timing pointers out of 5/32 gas welding rod many times to fit where needed.Just bend and use one of the cover bolts to hold it and grind a point on the end.Cheap ,simple and always adjustable.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

I don't like the tape either, it has a habit of coming off.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

I'll build one from tig wire after I find tdc . I have a snap-on digital dial back light . thanks guys i'll keep you posted .

Alright guys , thanks for the help . These 72 hour weeks are getting to me . I was a tooth off to the retarded side when I put the distributer back in from lifter changeout . All is back to normal now . Off to Clobberthon I go this weekend . Sorry about that guys .

When you say a tooth off, I assume you mean you had to rotate the housing farther than normal to get the timing where you wanted it?

No i pulled the distributer and moved the pump shaft and moved the rotor one tooth retarded . I guess i don't have enough room to just crank the housing around . Anyway major brain fart on my part .

I think you have said that you run an HEI and if so there is not very much room to move, especially if you run the vacuum pod. I used to have one but now I run an MSD dist. and there is plenty of room for ajustment.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

Makes sense.

Yea , it's tight up against the fire wall and intake runner. I also run a low vacuum advance can on the street but plug it at the track . Remember , i fabbed my own mounts and didn't cut the firewall for clearence .

Ditto, I like the look of the factory firewall with a V-8. But some things are a bi@*h to get to!

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

I guess my goal was to make the truck look factory until the hood was opened .

Well Iam sure I wont be the only one that will say, you did a hell of a job in doing that.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...