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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:35 pm
Posts: 647
Location: OKC
I was just curious what all is involved...

Will the torsion bars and front suspension hold up?
The frame is boxed, so I know that is good to go. (kind of impressive to me, since it came stock with 80hp)
I know the rear end needs swaped out too...

But what about the other stuff.... getting it legal and what not...
Seems like I had read something that said I would need to go to the tag agency and tell them I had an "engine change". Someone would inspect it or something and the title or whatever would be updated.

I know each state is different on these types of things...I was just looking for some knowledge from experienced folks


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:12 am 
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Location: North Mississippi
Information on engine swap :arrow: http://www.luvtruck.com/pdf/engswap.pdf

Other Information :arrow: http://www.luvtruck.com/Information.htm

I don't think in Oklahoma you have to notify them of anything. Someone who lives there currently would know better. I have a lot of family and friends that live out there, and I don't think you even have to get your vehicle smogged? If that's so, then I don't see why you would have to notify them of anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 6:55 pm 
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Front will be strong enough. Don't need to change the rear unless you are gonna put a lot of horse to it. Stock will hold up fine under normal use. Pretty low geared for highway stuf though unless you go to an overdrive tranny. if not get an s-10 rear with 3:08 gears and you will be fine. Bolt s right in.
I had no problem getting mine licensed in Mo at all since they don't require smog shit before 80.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:12 pm 
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Location: Baytown,Texas
I have a thread about my build here http://forums.luvtruck.com/viewtopic.php?t=11231
In my opinion the factory luv rear is stronger than the s-10 .


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:43 pm 
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Location: OKC
hotrod80 are you using the stock rearend? And what in the world are you doing for traction out on the track? It seems to be working very well for you.

The s-10's with v8's seem to spin the tires down the track, unless they have sandbags or have really put work into the rear end set up.

I guess my first concern should be motor mounts... Im gunna take a wild guess too... I will need to cut out the stocker's and weld in my own huh.

I've been reading all this stuff on-line, my eyes are feel like they are gunna pop out and roll around on the floor

Anyone using cal-trac's?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:37 am 
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Location: Baytown,Texas
hotrod80 are you using the stock rearend?

No , I had a 9" ford narrowed for it . I pulled the overload springs and added cheap slapper style bars . As of now it dead hooks on 26 x 8.5 x 15 M/T slicks . I will be adding more converter this week .

I'm gunna take a wild guess too... I will need to cut out the stocker's and weld in my own huh.

Thats what I did I cut mine back to the frame rail and mocked up the engine and trans in the engine bay and started fabbing . I run 1 3/4 " Hooker block huggers and Hei and did not cut the fire wall .

Anyone using cal-trac's?

I contacted Mike calvert about making some for these trucks , but that will be my next traction set up . Some variation of that style . They work .

The front end will hold up fine . Mine is stock with a Toyota rotor conversion in front . My truck actually drives and rides very good . I have really enjoyed the build . People seem to love these little trucks and it always draws a crowd . Good luck on your build . Keep us posted . There are alot of friendly people here to help .


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:46 am 
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With Hooker engine mounts don't need to cut out the stock mount plates to teh frame. Just cut off the fange plate at the end of the stock mount and mount the hooker mounts slightly in front of the old mounts.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 1:08 pm 
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Location: OKC
do i need to have a certified welder weld them in place?

I can tack them, but I dont think my little welder that I have will have enough amps to take on the job.

Where should I shop for a good rear end... Im thinking either a ford 9" or a 10 bolt will do.
Probably the junkyard? Then just go through it before the install...
What about having it shortend? Axles?

Will I need to modify the frame to run wider tires with the shortend rear end? I guess just knowing the backspacing on the rims will give me those kinds of answers.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 3:32 pm 
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i think with the hooker kit you mock the motor and trans with the rear mount as a guide and screw the front mounts in place then remove the motor and trans and weld the mounts in . I fabbed mine and tacked them in place and hauled the truck to the welder .

On the rear I found a truck 9" 31 spline and had the housing narrowed and axles cut with a chop saw . Then sent them off to Moser to have them resplined and pattern redrilled . I also used truck brakes redrilled to small ford pattern . My axle is 52" wide and I run a 15 x8 rear rim with a 255/60/15 and a 4" back space . If I had to do it over I would have gone with 4.5 " or 5.5" back space as these seem to be more avalible .

I did not modify my frame rails , I run factory leaves with the overload spring removed and slapper bars .

IMHO , I would buy a set of rims that are common and build the rear to suit them . Hope this helps some .


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:59 am 
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Location: Republic of Texas, 77836
I saw the CalTracs before somewhere. They look good, and look like they should wook too. Here is a link om there page that shows a Jeep Comache Truck.

http://www.calvertracing.com/gallery/Full%20Pics/page13pic12.htm It is a Cherokee basicly made into a pickup... They should to do them for a Luv or use a existing one....

Richard

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:50 am 
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I contacted them sometime ago, at the time they didn't have a LUV setup, by now they might. I was going to make some for an s10 work, but I bought a Triumph TR7 with a 9 inch...

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