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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:18 pm 
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A very complete thread on both the Pertonix install and the factory swap here...

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13577&hilit=mallory

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 10:01 am 
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Location: Beaverton, OR
This is great info- thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:54 am 
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Hey guys, I stumbled across your Luv forum and a few people have been chasing carby upgrades for their G180 and G200's. Check out my website,

http://www.giant.net.au/users/wight

If you click on the "For Sale" button, you'll see a carby upgrade package with a ported stock manifold, similar to the 'C' series Offenhauser manifolds. I also have bolt on EFI packages based on 4Z series inlet manifolds. All my stuff is aimed at right hand drive Australian vehicles, but the only real difference is the accelerator cable location.

One thing that people may be interested in is the history of my engine, with various turbo setups i've tried and some have dyno results. On the home page, click on "My Cars Development" button and you'll see the various stages of tune.

Cheers
Ben


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:27 am 
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hey beano thats a great site! thanks 8)


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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 11:01 am 
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Here's the distributor I'm using. Works great. Don't forget to order the corresponding cap and rotor...

I got my distributor from ebay for $120. This is the same one.

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:00 am 
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Thanks FullaLuv. So I can install a Pertronix in this distributer, and replace my '79 factory one with it?


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:55 am 
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Look at the distributor I showed you. It is not a Pertronix, but a Cardone remanufactured electronic dizzy from a 1985 Isuzu I-Mark. I don't have a module, just this dizzy. The wiring is a little different, and perhaps I should take another photo of it, but it's already been covered here very well if you click on the link given by Nukeday just a few posts back. If you want another photo of my distributor, just say so. I also added a hotter coil, with double-platinum plugs gapped to .044".

You can replace your factory one with a rebuilt unit like the one I got. One of the reasons I thought this was a good route to go was because if you go Pertronix you replace parts in your factory distributor with the electronic parts and then rely on the mechanical parts in that same stock distributor to keep going. Unless of course, you've replaced those too. I'm talking about the governor springs, the distributor shaft, and the cam. If those parts are not working perfectly, and you have a worn out distributor, replacing ignition parts with electronic ones will not correct the problem.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:18 am 
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'72-'75 G180 mods: I've got a '75 Luv with non-crossflow head. First got a Weber 32DFTA-10A off a '78-'83 Ford Fiesta, so it's a Motorcraft model 740. I used the old Tomco rebuild kit # 5490B gotten off e-bay. Had a heck of a time getting a manifold adapter that would work, finally had to mix/match. Used the old style TransDapt adapter, but that's like a big rectangular funnel, no port dividers. Had to fab an aluminum plate to fit on top, Weber on top of that. Fabbed my own cable linkage. Ran stronger but far from great so time to re-think.

Re-did it all. Ported the stock round intake manifold runners to better match square head ports. Ported and opened up carb mount plenum section to match Weber throats, opened and smoothed interior contours. Modified Weber mounting holes to fit LUV intake, just barely enough meat there, but had to reinforce with hi-strength epoxy in carb base. Removed choke and electronic/SMOG parts from carb, removed choke blades, linkage & shafts.

All that foolishness to maintain stock dual port, one- port-per carb throat intake. Takes advantage of stock 'dual plane' manifold plenum design for better bottom end & torque, yet allow free breathing and more power on top end. This way no aftermarket adapters needed.

Eliminated every part of SMOG stuff. Removed 4-port EGR manifold and jet tubes from head, plugged holes in head using the jet tube flare nuts with a bolt brazed in place of tube. Removed air pump and all related SMOG, changed from solenoid controlled vacuum to straight manifold vacuum for distributor. Left vacuum solenoid in place to vent crankcase etc. Only using a PCV valve, all that's required on '75 and older vehicles in Kalifornia.

Welded up a different throttle lever, and fabbed a new throttle cable 'L' mounting bracket. Gotta be careful on throtte linkage on throttle shaft, if not re-assembled correctly the spring can jam it up. Also be careful because under some carb components removed [throttle kicker assy, electric choke assy] there's a bleed or vacuum orifice hole, sometimes needs to be sealed with a screw.

Idle shutoff solenoid must be wired to ignition hot, bowl vent solenoid doesn't need electrical connection. This carb uses a fuel supply and a return line like stock LUV. There's a brass welch plug with plastic plug underneath covering up the idle mixture needle, drill out and pry out carefully so you can adjust.

Ported the stock phenolic carb insulator to match Weber throats. Got it all hooked up and ran terrible, everything wrong. Fiddled and got it at least driveable, but lousy idle, miss, and carb hissing real loud.

Took a piece of plastic fuel line and used as stethoscope to trace down source of hiss. Turns out Weber DFTA carb base has some bleed ports that were not sealed by stock LUV phenolic spacer & gasket, not wide enough. Pulled carb and fabbed up an aluminum plate, about 3/16" thick, to match Weber base width and cut gaskets, to place on top of stock phenolic insulator and under Weber.

SUCCESS! Idles great, miss gone, no flat spot, quick acceleration. Now expecting much better bottom end, better mid-range and strong top end with much better mileage to boot. Got a fuel pressure regulator but haven't installed yet. Pain in the but to adapt this carb, pretty tricky, but requires no aftermarket adapters, just a bunch of hand tools, time and congential insanity.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Zane wrote:
MEPR wrote:
Running a Weber carb is the best bolt on there is, most popular carb being the 32/36 DGEV (DGEV=electric choke, DGAV=hot air choke and DGV=manual choke), there are guys running 32/32s and 38/38s(the numbers in Weber carb designations refer to the diameter of the throtle body bores in MMs. The 32/36 is a progresive 2bbl and such will net better fuel millage than the others)
Pace setter makes headers for the G180 and i have been vary happy with mine


If you use a Weber carb, do you need the intake manifold machined?
On the Pace Setter header, can you use the existing exhaust pipe? What size exhaust pipe would you guys recommend?


Would somebody care to answer these questions? I would like to know too.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:10 pm 
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Quote:
If you use a Weber carb, do you need the intake manifold machined?


No...you just need an adapter or better yet - an Offy intake. (You can get a new one from Mokadeth.)

Quote:
On the Pace Setter header, can you use the existing exhaust pipe? What size exhaust pipe would you guys recommend?


Yes if it isn't all rotted out...and most people use 2 inch to 2 1/2 inch - but you will need some type of a muffler that will still give you sufficient back pressure so you don't loose any low-end torque (which the G180 doesn't have a lot of to spare), so if your stock muffler is good - don't toss it. On mine, (which has an Impulse 1.9 G200z engine - but I ran a 1.8 G180 on the same system prior to swapping it in), I have all 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a "cherry bomb" glasspak right behind my header, a cheapo aftermarket muffler next, and a flowmaster resonator tip at the very end. It's got the right back pressure, it's quiet enough at idle or cruising speeds, but it still has a nice sound to it when you step on it.

It's a cheap and reliable setup that will probably outlive the truck - and even the way I drive - cops don't pounce on me. And it definitely does not sound like a fart can equipped big ugly wing packin' ricer....lol


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:35 pm 
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lets talk vaccum lines and weber carbs for a minute. I'm dealing with a luv that has a stock motor, weber carb, and a very confusing and incomplete vaccum system. can anyone give me a simplified vaccum diagram, with some pictures PLEASE. I'm just not luv'n the powerless thing right now, and I think some vaccum help would be in order. I still have the original vaccum diagram on the inside of the hood. but things under the hood aren't the same as they were in 1979


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:36 pm 
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yes, please somebody help us....

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:52 am 
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viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17063&start=20

Maybe this will help. It's been almost a year since I installed the Weber and it's running strong as ever. I know I said earlier in this thread I would check things out later in the summer, but I forgot about it. This way of connecting the vacuum lines was just common sense to me and although there were doubters claiming it would lead to disaster, they have been proven wrong.

I just got my license tabs for another year...almost 20,000 miles on my LUV so far!!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:53 pm 
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MEPR wrote:
Offenhouser also still makes intakes for the G180 designed for Holley 2bbl and 4bbl carbs, i have looked into this and the waiting period is about 30-40 days
Also if your lucky there are intakes designed for side draft carbs floating around on E-bay from time to time.

Note im not shure how much or if any of this will work for the old wedge head engines (pre 76?). All of this based is on my experience with the hemi head engines.

would the intake be illegal on a somged truck in cali?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:47 am 
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Anybody ever do a FI retrofit?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:13 pm 
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on the gemini site they do it all the time

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:27 am 
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as far as vaccume goes i ran the hose from the vaccume advance on the distributor to one of the ports on the intake, and the rest i either plugged off or routed one vaccume barb to another, anythign else i have seen in there didnt seem to do anyhting but get in my way, on top of having my engine completely dismantled when i got it, it ran jsut fine...

Dustin

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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 5:37 am 
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ok on a TINY budget im looking for a few things i can do myself in the shop on the milling machine so im wondering.
1. how much would be recommended to be machined from the head?? at the start of the thread .020 was mentioned? is that a decent enough boost in compression to pull some more power or can .03 be taken of safely?

2. if i add a small turbo on a stock G180 block how much boost is safe on the engine? (brand new motor with about 10 miles on it)

3. would making a custom intake manifold using smooth tubing in place of the rougher cast manifold with a stock carb free up a little bit of power?

any estimate on power increase from each mod would be appreciated so i can make my priorities

with an entire spare G180 block, head and almost all parts and components i have a spare if i make a mistake so im not too worried about it, i will do the mods on the extras while i have the new motor in the truck and swap later if it works out.

sorry about the rambling long post, just looking for a cheap way to free up some power without having to swap engines.
if anyone has a weber or really any performance parts they would be willing to trade for main engine parts, block, head, other components let me know

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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:37 pm 
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what regrind spec would you guys recommend for a low-mid boost turbo application run at higher rpm (teen with a lead foot used to 2 stroke motocross bikes)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:55 pm 
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I have a block/head at the shop right now was reading first post and wanted to know if you bore out to .60 what piston would you use? Guy said all of mine were colapsed, so i have to pick up new ones any way.

Thoughts?


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