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With the problem of getting a starter to even work with this motor was a feat in itself. It took 2 years of periodic driving to wear things out. I've had replaced starters that made some noise and some that didn't make any noise at all. Now im certian that this is correct. In fact, i've found myself starting and restarting the truck just to see it fire up so smoothly. Now im a firm believer of proper shimming. I just never thought that .060 of shim material on one of the starter bolts was proper procedure.
One things for sure, if this starter fails, im getting a mini-starter.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Funny I see this suggested!
I use to use shims but not anymore!
A neighbor who used to live across the street from me was a GM mechanic back in the late 50's thru the 60's and he told me that shims are a cause of bad starter bolts!
So, he showed me.
We took out the shims and replaced the starter bolts with new ones, and it worked. After this point I would replace the starter too....
He states that the KNURLING on the shaft of the bolts is there for a reason: to center the starter correctly.
Now, with that said, in todays rebulit items, Quality control and such, I am not sure that what we have in today's parts suppliers' replacement parts are going to succeed as they did as I was taught with replacement parts available from years ago.
So, just check your starter bolts, when replacing them, there are different lengths...so make sure you get the right ones.
Alot of GM parts desks dont know all the old stuff so it's best to bring in what ya got to compare with what is available....
Another one Ive seen is bad Block threads, and worn guide holes in the Block before the threads in the Block for the bolts; that will also make the starter not seat correctly as well!
Many variables exist today: aftermarket flexplates, aftermarket starters, aftermarket solenoids, etc etc etc...
Just look over the parts you have, inspect for any defects, as they do happen, even in new items.
One bad part can make another good part defective....
Good Luck

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72 L.U.V.
427 SBC-700R4
SE 9-3/8 4P TracLoc, 6-lug rear discs,
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In my case, i had new bolts with a new starter when i built the 400 SB. All i had to start with was a worn long block with an H balancer, flexplate and iron intake manifold, Everything was reworked with new tins, aluminum intake and headers. At first i just chalked it up to having a 30+ year old flexplate. But after following the shimming procedures, im certian that its something that needs to be addressed with a starter install.
As for quality control, i feel that it's not as good as it once was. The first starter i got for this motor didn't work long enough to get the motor fired up. It would skip across the flexplate almost every time. So it got sent back to AutoZone and the 2nd starter would grab. It functioned until it killed the flexplate. In both situations, the starter housing surface that mates to the block was too thick. This made the starters sit too far down which inturn, makes them sit too far away from the flexplate. By adding shim material to the outboard bolt of the starter, it would rock the starter towards the flexplate. This fixed my particular setup.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.