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Im sorry, I didnt know you were running a manual trani. I definently think its a good possiblity thats where the problem lies!!!!!!!!!! and like tomslong 79 said, I wold think you would smell the clutch getting hot if it were slipping. Have you????

Sounds like too many bearing spacers are pushing on the clutch springs and have decreased the holding pressure of the clutch. So thats probably why you aren't smelling anything burning up cause its only slipping for those few seconds under hard acceleration? ......Just an idea

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1975 V8 Luv
1980 Bagged Luv

You should have an RPM spike if the clutch is slipping. I noticed earlier in the thread that you said the truck had high revs and slow speed. This is an indicator that it might be the clutch.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

mytmouz i think you just nailed his problem,and if that is a 3spd saginaw trans then they are pretty tall geared in 1st almost as tall as second in most 4spds. Now he gets to pull the trans and change the clutch.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Kyhlbrad i believe that you have a mis matched master and slave combo.First ALWAYS adjust you clutch at the throw out arm not at the pedal,you should have about a 1/8" of free play at the bearing,next if you are using the stock master and a after market slave then you master may be to small and can't move the slave enough to work right and you may have adjusted the slave to work and now your clutch is partly disengaged ,your clutch might be bad or it is the wrong setup. Check your free play first then check the rest.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

i have smelled something. but i don't know what a burning clutch smells like. there is no free play in the bearing i spaced it probably pushing the diaphragm in. this will be the 8th or 9th time i have removed the tranny, so i guess it shouldn't be a problem. the clutch is bran new i only took the truck around the block 3 times. do you guys think it is ruined? i don't think it is the slave setup. the first time i set it up i didn't use any spacers and the slave cylinder blew apart. i replaced the o-rings added spacers and everything was fine ( no leaking i mean)

When you pull your tranny , make sure the clutch disc isn't in backwards. With the shimming and the pedal adjustments you could possibly get it to engage enough to get moving. Most of the time they won't engage though. Checking it out while you have it down though is easier than repulling it later. I doubt that this is the problem though.

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If you think no one cares, try missing a couple of payments...



FIAA!

SFPP!

?

Dose your slave cyl. have enough travel to work for your application ?

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

well i took out the spacers. and the problem persists. i took it around the block and then the wiring fried. i didn't even touch any wires on it. so i think it is time to get a new truck.

well just kinda of wondering are you running a dual plane manifold or a sigle because a single will have slower reasponce from low rpm's for street use you need a dual plane

here is a base plan of attack on your clutch; first when you have your truck in the air (hopefully on jack stands ) look at the throw out arm, the coming out of the bellhousing should be angled toward the front of the truck if it is coming straight out or angled back then you need to fix it to get the proper clutch movement. 1 either you have a mismatch in the clutch system 2 you will need an adjustable pivot for the clutch fork to get the proper geometry.When you pull the bellhousing look at the clutch pack,the the fingers or diaphram should be sticking out past the cover just a little bit ,if if not the the problem lays in the pack. This is just a start as long distance trouble shooting can be hit or miss. but you need a place to start good luck.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

i do not have a throw out arm on my clutch. i removed it and installed http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku this bearing

Well now that changes almost every thing. First not to sound ugly but all the info at one time would get you better and faster results.That said make sure your flywheel is flat ,the diaphram clutch will be almost flat when torqued down.here is one to check is you hyd. throw out backing off completely when you let off the pedal,check and make sure it is not hanging up or cocking on the sleeve.You also need to check the master cyl. push rod for free play.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

i think i am going to order this part and put my clutch fork back in http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
and if that doesn't fix my problem then it is time for a new tranny

That is the same one i used on my truck,i also used the heavy duty clutch fork,and now it gets interesting. I had to use a plasma cutter to put a hole in the fork for the save cyl.(the fork is way to hard to drill unless you have a diamond drill) then i used a chevy rocker ball on the back side in the divot. I used a piece of 2x6 tubing and cut a angle piece out of it then drilled and tapped the frame, bolted every thing up that is the rest of the story.Make sure your master cyl. is big enough and you are done.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

turbo 350