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i run the stock springs and stock type shocks too, with a 9" narrowed. i made my traction bars but they are longer that the spring eyes. they go past the spring eye and bump against the frame and i use an old head bolt instaed of rubber stops. i pull 1.38 60' times and run 9.75 @ 138mph with no hooking problems at all. i have another luv set up this way too with no hooking problems..

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9.75 @138 496
luv to race

You sound like the guy I need talk to. What pinion angle do you run? Do you preload your springs? Do run stock shocks of after market? Do you leave on the bottle? Do you have a coilover front end? Do you have stock leaf springs and do you have the overload spring?

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

no nos, stock leafs with over load removed, aprox 4 deg pinion angle, stock type shocks not race shocks, stock front end with the stock shocks and the torsion bars slightly preloaded for fenderwell header clearance. my slappers are home made aprox 6-8" past the spring eyes and the stops are head bolts set up with 1/8-1/4" clearance. the bars are welded to the spring plates. i cut notches in the middle front and rear to keep the bars close to the springs. i run a 496 bbc / powerglide /14x32 slicks / 4.30 gears/ all motor/ home made headers from a headman kit,

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9.75 @138 496
luv to race

i am really into building race trucks. fixn to build another one with extended fenders and extended cab, to move the engine back. this will allow for better weight transfer and better header combo. as well as looking cool and different. i have built 3 race luvs so far and help with a few others, so if anyone has any questions i would be glad to help out. i luv to fabricate and weld. my pics are on this site. i built the mighty mouse truck plus barret hinesley's luv, also on this site. i won the points championship as well as the king of the track at hobbs motorsports park, hobbs, nm. this year. then was runner up in the race of champions at the summit series div 4 finals in ennis tx. yep it's still a foot brake luv. no trans brake (yet).post questions or give a call ...... jeff foreman 432-413-9729
odessa,tx.

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9.75 @138 496
luv to race

I think that yours is a little more race than mine. I know that one problem is that I run a 10.5 sportman pro, might try slicks for the track but I drive the truck about 400 to 500 miles a year. I am interested in your trac bars what made you go past the sring eye when you fabbed them? More leverage? I also fabbed mine similiar to yours but stopped at the spring.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

I have the cheap clamp on style bars and after reading this I fell like the part inbetween my clamps is not allowed to flex like a shock mount style . 1.39 60' is smokin .

1.39 is smokin. I just started with the summit kind that clamped on the spring, cut the mounts off, notched the factory spring plate and slid in the 2x3 tubing made my measurement to be in the center of the spring mount and welded it up. Simple, and didn't even mess up the chrome to bad.

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Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower...and that's kind of the same thing...

Heres a thought.
See if you can track down an Isuzu Florian, body wise its a 4 door luv. Its not on a chassis. You could make up a dual cab luv and just recess the firewall/bulkhead and drive from up the back seat.


Cheers, Bob.

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Current project, 1979 KB Isuzu Ute.

Daily driver, '86 Rodeo Spacecab.
Chasing parts for Isuzu Impulse.

i am running 4 1/2 neg pinion angle on mine with ladderbars and floaters 26x8.5 slicks i have had a 1.39 60' on spray and usually have a 1.53 on motor . it sounds to me like your springs are "wraping up" causing the rear suspension to unload. how far are your slapper bar snubbers from the frame if the distance is too far they can"slap" too hard and unload the rear. i would suggest them to be very tight. i know you said you have your pinion at 4 degrees but if the rear is not rigid when the rear twists before your bars make contact you could actually be up in the positive on pinion angle. i have 15.00 carquest gas shocks on the rear of mine nothing fancy i know you said you dont want to go ladderbar. i am not sure of the author but i read it earlier in the post where somone fabbed a set at home he was right on key going past the end of the spring. ever seen an old grag car from the 60's some had home made slappers that went up to the front of the car. i used to own a 57 chevy that had was an ex drag car and had a set that went up to the trans crossmember. good luck if there is any way i can help feel free to email me at vaclassiccars@yahoo.com

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74 LUV 355 Bracket Car

WANTED DEAD OR ALIVE 68-74 NOVAS

TOO MUCH IS NOT ENOUGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The longer the bars, the more lift to the front. If the shocks are bottoming out, this will make the problem worse. Also, the bars may not need to be as long if you are running a small block as opposed to a big block. The weight difference will mean a change in the instant center, which is the reason for longer bars. Longer bars tend to get the front end up, so if you street drive your truck, you may not want as much of. We once had a 1969 firebird dirt drag car and experimented with the length of the ladder bars to help keep the nose of the car up as much as possible to keep the crossmember from dragging in the ruts. This car had a BBC and the bars ended up mounting in the area of the front doors.

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