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I noticed it as well LUVNIT, but didn't want to bust your balls. I decided to keep my battery in it's stock location too. I like the look of the bed without a battery in it.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Hey LUVNIT didn't mean to ding ya to much LOL but been there done that as well. Here is an idea that you might want to explore,and due to i have a step side i can't. Behind the cab between the frame and the outside of the box is a space i believe that a battery box can be mounted. My old Mazda Rotary pickup had one there stock.If you can find a 70's to early Dodge Van,they had a sealed battery box mounted this way( some Chev. diesels did also) rob the box and mount it to your truck.There are allot of open side mount choices as well.This would clean up your engine compartment as well as put that heavy battery weight where you need it with out being a eye sore. I am going to do this mount on a 90 Ford Ranger that i put a 2.3 turbo motor in and there now is no room for the battery. Like i said its just an idea but it could help lot of LUV owners who don't want a battery in the bed.

Ok everybody out there in LUV world i got radiator coming from summit its a Howe #HRE-342B now i just have to wait for that UPS guy to get it here. Hey wait thats me.Art Milne UPSGUYINAZ Check out my pictures and let me know what you think.

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ARTIE

Its all good!!! Thanks for the info!!!

If you have the know how chop down the front crossmember and widen the coresuport and run as big as u can if you ever plan on run any real horsepower! my radiator is 19x32 with 2 1.5 cores. this takes a lot of fab work so if your up to it u will never have heating probs again. but my first was a 19x22 also, so what do i know! I have 6.5 inch motor set back and a 4 inch body drop so u might not have to chop the crossmember that bad?

actually theres nothing wrong with a 19x22 radiator no matter how much HP you are running. find a radiator builder that can take your aluminum 19x22 radiator and retank it as a "multi pass" it may take you a while to find a person that knows how to do this but lets just say if radiator room is limited then this is a very viable option. I had a 1979 Mustang with a built 460 motor and i used the stock ford 4cyl radiator but just had it rebuilt for 4 passes. this is basically the process of blocking off your tank in select places so it diverts the coolant back thru the radiator only to hit another diverter and go back...kinda like a zig zag thru your radiator. you get the picture. the coolant spends more time passing by the fins and has more time to heat transfer calories. you could practically dip your hand in the coolant coming out of the radiator outlet on my stang. thats how well it worked. circle track car builders will know what a multi pass radiator is.

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears

Hey LUVNIT I bought one of those battery relocate kits from summit. The battery box that came with it looks pretty cheesy and I didnt end up using it. I think I am going end up building one out of aluminum. Check with a welding shop for the cable I did that when I built my stock car and it was pretty cheap. If you are set on using a plastic box I will give you mine when you come to the meet if you want it.

I'll have to check it out, THANKS

So i remembered something I learned a while ago about Thermal Conductivity of differt types of metal, so I did some research and have come to this conclusion...

Copper has the hightest thermal conductivity of all the metals used in radiators at 401 ( W/m * K ) while aluminum is only at 237. In fact only Pure silver has a higher rating than copper at 429. That does not mean that aluminum is not good as it is # 4 on the list behing Pure Gold at 317, Imagine that a Pure Gold Radiator - Bling, Bling. Any way to make my point, if you are build a mild small block, say under 300 hp than a copper radiator would be fine. Now if you are going more than that go Aluminum, not because of the metal or the weight, but for the fact that most Aluminum radiators use Larger tubes than stock, meaning more surface area, which means better cooling.

Ok Science class is over... The nerd will go away.

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'76 MUD project, 1 ton axles, lockers, 20" Lift, Big Smallblock, On board air, 54" Boggers, Hummer Double beadlocks, External Rollcage... in the works.

(kid in the back of the class here) Umm.... I like, don't get it.


J.K.


Actually thats interesting. I never thought of the kind of metal making a difference in heat exchanging. I've always just painted it all black (stock ones) to make it look better through the grille.

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OK, I'm over it. Where's the beer?