LUVTruck.com

Does anybody have a picture of a tranmission bracket for 350th? Can i make my own?

take a piece of 1/4 plate6"long x6" wide and weld to cross member in front use a neoprene mount thats what i have on my luv hope it helps

I appreciate the response. I'm new at this so please bear with me. where exactly do you weld it at?

I could use this info myself. I refuse to pay the ridiculous $100 that Hooker wants for their bracket. I bought the frame mounts, but I'll make the trans piece.

There isn't much to it, but unless I took mine off, I couldn't give you specifics. Perhaps someone on here has one that they can measure up for you?

all i did was take a peice of scrap steel i had laying around that alreay had a hole about where i needed it...bolted that to the trans and placed the other end on the crossmember wher i wanted it and welded it in place.....course truck hasnt ran yet so i dont know how strong its gonna be

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If no one else gets to it before I do. I will take a pic of mine and measure it out for you...

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This may help! Go the project gallery, click on Tyrone Dillard and look at my bracket Picture #14. I used part# 622360 from O'Reilly, squard tubing and angle iron. If you have all of this, it should cost you $6.48, if you do it yourself.

Tyrone, That bracket looks like the fastest surest, cheapest way to get the job done! The simplicity of it is really cool. But we need to talk about pinion angles. The Hooker Kits for the Buick V-6 and SBC V-8 are designed to basicly match the stock pinion angle of the differential (roughly +3 degrees). That trans bracket setup looks steeper. Im guessing around +10 degrees. this can cause driveline problems. But with the design of this particular trans bracket, you can basicly tune the angle in by using some kind of spacer plates under the rubber mount. Dial in your pinion angle so you'll get a better driving truck.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I am searching the site for this info...
I need reference images to determine the bracketry...I will go look at this above mentioned link.
I looked at Tyronne's owner/image link but i didnt find the images...
How can I determine the correct angle of the motor/trans combination in relationship to the driveshaft rear axle pinion angle?
Is there a tool I can buy to use to get this result?

Give a day or two and I will send you a picture of the bracket. It's not hare and it may be what your looking for.

OK, I found a really good image on Chris Furtick's 73 LUV images.
Its sorta a straight down look at it but I see he must be using the Hooker Trans mount for this swap as it appears to be the bolt on style.
Is the Hooker trans mount for a T-350 only?

The reason I am looking into this is the truck I am getting has a questionable mount situation at the rear crossmember and I wanted to get ideas so I can fab up something that will work for the moment until I can get the coil over set up decided.

Ben , I looked over your how to's PDF links but unfortunately, I couldnt better determine thru the images you have on how your removable works.



I was also trying to consider the correct geometry for the engine/Trans angle in relationship to the driveshaft/rear axle alignments.

What is the general theory on a-typical powertrain alignment degree of angle selection?

In general theory, the angle of the motor /trans centerline must be within 3+/- degrees of the differential yoke centerline. The driveshaft angle isn't crucial in this case. If you were building a serious off road / rock crawler type truck, different rules come into play.
Its easiest to figure out driveline angle using level ground as your reference. Using a protractor or angle finder and a bubble level, you can figure out the crankshaft/trans input-output shaft angle by finding the angle of the bottom of the block (the surface that the oil pan bolts to). Or you can find the vertical angle of the harmonic balancer/crank pulley. If you find that the motor points upward, it's a positive angle. If the motor points down, it's a negative angle.
The pinion yoke can be the point to figure its angle. Get the yoke turned to were the u-jount caps would be either horizontal or vertical. That flat edge is the point to find its angle.
As long as the 2 angle match within 3 degrees of each other, it's good. Drivelines built for performance can have a negative angle. This is to compensate for a certian degree of axle wrap.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.