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I'm having problems with my 78 luv not 4x4. The last 2 cylinders aren't firing. I've checked the plugs and I'm getting spark. Also it seems I'm getting compression. I am pretty much out of ideas as what could be wrong...any advice would be great. I've changed all the plugs, and the points...getting new plug wires tomorrow. Also i need to make sure the firing order is correct if anyone knows it that would be a HUGE help, but i think I'm right on them. At first light i will check my timing, but as i said I'm getting fire and compression but if i remove the plug wires from 3 and/or 4 there is no change, but 1 and 2 seem to be firing fine. And I'm stuck in a little town in the middle of no where.

Thanks,
Chris

need more info.
What lead up to this? did it run fine for a while and then all of a sudden do this? or is this a fresh motor that you just fired?

after you confirm firing order...
busted or soggy valve spring?
rocker arm?
valve lash?
bent push rod? (not sure if ur running a 1.8 or a v8)
its not firing at all?

i mean if you put ur hand near the exhaust port its cold?

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1978 LUV Truck 2WD
450 "Small Block" Chevy
3.70 Ford 9
28x10 Goodyears

get a compression gauge you could have a blowen head gasket between number 3&4 cylinders

Isn't the firing order 1.... 3.... 2.... 4....?

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Ok im using the original 1.8 engine that came with it off the factory. I noticed a problem a few days ago after not being able to get it started during some freezing weather. It would run, but when it was below half a tank it would lose power. I would press the gas and it would rev then stop (with pedal in floored position). Ive redone the firing order...making sure it was correct and no change. Today i took off the valve cover and everything seemed to be fine. Havent checked the combustion or exaust yet. Im really leaning towards either a blown head or something wrong with the cylinder or piston...but then again i really dont know jack about automotive work. Tried to get it started before removing the valve cover but i had messed with the timing to make sure it was firing in the correct order...it was...I hope that helps anything anyone could think of ill try...this little luv is my daily driver and i put alot of highway miles on it. It has no engine mods and due to money anything thats done to it is going to be done by me.

Thanks for any input,
Chris

not to be silly but did you check the oil to see if theres water in it milky or not milky that is the (Q)

no water in the oil that i can tell

have you got a compression reading on all the cylinders that is a good start when you do post um so we might be able to help better

Well i tore down the engine after doing a compression test on 3 and 4 and was only getting around 30 psi per which lead me to believe head gasket was shot...and of course it was. There was about a 3/4 inch hole in the gasket between 3 and 4. Now i my biggest concern is getting the timing chain back on there and alined properly. Any tips with that? Do i have to completely remove the timing chain cover? and if so how? Ive removed all the bolts i could find but its still on there and its not moving, but if i can get the timing correct another way man that would save me alot of trouble. Thanks again for any help possable and for the tips to finding the problem.

Thanks,
Chris

the oil pan will hold the cover on when i did my s-10 (82) with the 1.8 in it i got my book and went to the libery to get all that i could get .if you can get all the right diagrams that will get you on the road atlest a good start

ok whats an easy way to cheat and set my timing chain properly...ive accidently dropped the timing chain into the case and really really really dont want to take it off...

Eww. First let me tell you what you should have done, just in hopes of saving the next guy the trouble. Before removing the head, wire or zip tie through the cam gear and around the chain, locking it to the gear. Then you take the gear off with the chain attached and leave it with the block. Also, don't release the tensioner (little plastic flathead screw thing down in the block) as it helps hold the chain on the lower gear.

So, now you can either try to get the timing cover off, which is basically impossible with the oil pan on, or get everything lined up externally and hope for the best. I'd skip bothering with the cover. Besides the studs in the front that go through the pan you also have the oil pump and pickup tube to contend with. The oil pan has to come off which is tough to do in the truck. Getting it all back together would also present challenges, like getting the oil pump/distributor gear lined up right.

Here's my take how to get it. Odds are the bottom of the chain did not move, there isn't much room around the lower gear. Even if it did, it won't matter much. Line up the crank at 0 degrees and the distributor with #4. Then when you put the head back on you can line up the camshaft mark (even with the dowel, small hash mark on the cam to) with the mark on the front rocker arm bracket. Basically that mark and the dowel should be straight up. Install the cam gear like that with the crank at o degrees and the disti pointing at #4 and everything will be lined up.

One more tip, before putting the head on, back off the valve adjusters all the way or remove the rocker arms. When you don't know the cam and crank are lined up this way you avoid banging a valve into anything like the head gasket (could make it fail quick) or having a piston hit a valve.

Good info for the guy's doing there thing on there own when doing head gaskets, i hope he had the head surfaced or he will be doing it again pretty soon.