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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 2:16 am 
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Location: McMinnville, OR
This got asked in another thread, long ago, but now Ive got some ideas to go along with the question. I've got a couple of old rears with blown out pinion bearings/seals and a luv bed partially converted to become a trailer with no rear axle. (It donated to the cause when one of the others blew) I've been thinking of putting that trailer into service, but don't really have a good donor axle to spare, or at least not that I want to "waste" on a trailer.

Here's my theory: Take the ring gear off one of the toasted rears I have, seal up the pinion somehow, and run it under my trailer. My question I guess, is how may other parts can/should I remove to get a rear axle that works without spinning the yoke on the outside. I've never spent the time to crack open the rear end on one of these trucks, but it seems like a pretty simple plan to me. Anything I'm missing or can I get away with this plan?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 5:20 am 
Just remove the diff & weld a plate over the hole.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 6:43 am 
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Location: Soddy Daisy
sc010b7527 wrote:
Just remove the diff & weld a plate over the hole.

do you mean remove the pinion?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:08 am 
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Location: Colorado Springs
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:lol: this was sitting in my parking lot when i came home one morning :lol:

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1980 luv sport 4x4 Just a memory now :(
Frame rusted from the inside. Truck stripped and now looking for a new donor in southern ohio


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 7:49 pm 
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Having thought about it more, I think my best bet is to remove the pinion shaft/gear and plug the hole. The ring gear probably does alot of the oiling of the rest of the works and I'd rather not have any other bearings fail. Now to figure out the best way to plug the hole in the front of that third member. The cast part makes it a little interesting, but all it has to do is hold fluid not bear any load so welding a plate in should do the trick. The other option is taking just the gear off and leaving the shaft in place. If the seals have anything left in them they may hold fluid well enough if the shaft isn't constantly spinning/flopping around. I'll have to see how feasible that idea is once I get to taking it apart.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 11:50 pm 
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How come all the trailers I see like the one in the photo are always in better shape than my truck?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 1:04 am 
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Well the wheel bearings are sealed so they are not dependant on 90w for lubrication. I would almost say pull the third member and bolt a plat over the hole. The axles are held in at the outer edges anyway, but i would test this whith light loads first to make shure the hweels dont kick out on the bottom.

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