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I looked at some of the other posts on torque converters but I didn't find my answer. In my 700r4 am I going to need a lockup or non lockup converter. I am pretty sure my tranny has been wired were I don't need a pressure switch or toggle to lock one up I am going for a 2800-3200 stahl range or should I go for a lower stahl for the street and strip driving.
I have been told I should use the non lockup

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

it depends on weather the transmission is a lock up or non.

you cannot put a non lock up torque converter into a lock up trans.... it has to be converted to use that way.

How is your trans wired? it needs to have some sort of external control inorder to lock up and unlock correctly.

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

well I am not sure. There is no wiring to it. When we had it in the S-10 we ran it with no hookups and it shifted fine and also went to overdrive ok. Didn't ever seem to bog down any or kill the motor anytime that I remember.
The tranny guy told me I need to bring it in and let them look at it. Wonder if I can tell by taking the pan off myself and looking.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

ok, i get it.

yea, in a 700R4 you can drive just fine through gears 1-4 .... just means that the LOCK UP function of the torque converter isnt used. And when a torque converter is locked up that means there is no slippage or stall through the converter.

if gas milage is the concern than a lock up is preferred.

if you pull the trans pan, and there are wires and solenoids i would bet its still in lock up config.

now, there is the big argument of weather lock-up is strong enough for racing use, and between me and my trans builder, weight seems to be the biggest factor.
in a light weight luv, i would keep the lock up function and use a manual system to lock up at the top of the 1/4.... i do this in my Grand National but I run a 2004r and have survived multiple 9 sec 1/4s locking up at WOT. Its true that a 200 is stronger than a 700 - but in a light weight LUV (under 3000lbs - 2560 being ideal) that trans should hold up well if built right.

hope that helps,

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

Guess instead of bringing it to the tranny place I'll pull the pan. I pulled the tranny out last night to take it in.
All the torque guys seem to tell me I need a non lockup.
This is for street cruisin and running it on the strip.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

The lockup converter has a flat face (for the lockup clutch) where you bolt to it, the non lockup is rounded

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

OK, I will look. Might post a pic if I can't figure it out. So the front you bolt to the flywheel will be flat. I know mine is round on the front facing the front of the truck.

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Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

stopped by the house and looked at my converter. It is flat were it bolts to the flywheel and rounded were it goes in the tranny.
I was told also today if my shaft has the little o ring on it at the end it is a lockup type.
Still gonna drain out the fluid and pop the bottom off maybe and see what is inside. Wished I would have kept the company card I got it from.
More than likely it is a lockup.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

well thats good news! lock up is a great function.

how much motor are you planning on putting in front of that 700?

A.j.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykgDNjeTa0g

well actually if everything is what it is said to be it will be roughly 425 or better

So let me see if this is right. Non lockup is always slipping to an extent which is bad. i read in bowtie overdrive they don't know why anyone would run non lockup.
So a lockup is always locked until it goes to overdrive or is it unlocked until it is electrically locked by a switch causing it to slip bringing the rpm's down for milage on the highway.
Either which way I guess Lockup is the way to go.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

ok here is some pics/ I guess it is a lockup since it has the wiring right. Do I need to run a toggle switch if I want to lock it manually in a gear. will they work without a switch.
Guess the pics are little big. Don't know how to shrink them.
I just figured out I have over 5,000 in this truck with the motor and tranny and it is still just a rolling chasis and a bunch of parts. Bummer

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

The trans looks like new and that is a lockup converter. Yes you can wire the converter to a toggle switch and lock it up when you want.

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1978 pro street step/side 455Buick, 4sp,4.11s, 31/18.5s

Cool, gonna take the converter in and see how many splines so get the right one. Don't trust my counting.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

OK, didn't get the converter in but I did count the splines. Now another dilema, Which one do I go by, The big shaft on the outside has 27 but the small one in the center with the oil ring has 30. Which do I go by when ordering.

Yea the tranny is new. I only put 15 miles on it when in the s-10

I found it on another place on the web. Is this right

I found the answer! TCI tech says to count the shaft you can spin by hand (the narrower of the two shafts). In my case, this is a 30 spline transmission. I hope this helps someone else who might be doing a 700r4.
Guess that is the one in the middle.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

OK i figured out what I need but now what stahl. I have talked to so many different people it is getting confusing. Was going with a 2800-3200 but everyone says with the bigger cam it will stahll anywhere from 7oo to 1,000 lower with a 12 inch converter.
Since this isn't gonna be a full race truck I don't think I need a 10 inch but would I get better perormance with it.
I found one in New York who builds them as ordered and he suggested the 2400-2800 stahl.
Only thing for sure I know is the 12's run cooler than the 10's and will last longer. Ijust want streetability and something i won't set there and roast the tires after you hit the stahl speed rpm.
My cam is 2800-6500 rpm and I am running a 750 double pumper and single plain intake which is pretty well matched up rpm wise. The cam is 241 duration I think@50 degrees and 541 lift. Aluminum heads with 202 160 valves.
I hate to buy something i can't be sure will work.
I need to get this thing going.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!

I didn't see this mentioned above, but what rear end gear ratio are you running?

Higher stall converters are more annoying on the street with higher gears (lower number) and a heavier vehicle. The LUV's weight is average, not real light but not a tank. So the rear end ratio is kind of the deciding factor.

ooops forgot. I am running the 3:73's with the 700r4 so it kinda acts like 4:10's with the lower first gear.

_________________
Too much to do and not enough time or money!
Courage is the other side of fear!
Pain is the weakness leaving the body!