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i have a 1980 2wd chevy luv with a stock 1.8L engine. I am having problems of the overheating nature. Sometimes it will really overheat (even in 30 degree weather, i am from Montana). I put an overflow tank on it, new thermistat, and a new radiator cap, it still overheats. And with the overflow tank it will spit out the overflow coolant but it wont suck it back in. Any answers to that would be great to.

radiator stopped up

Bad news man. Your engine might have blown the headgasket. I've seen it alot over the years of owning and working on these little luvs. You can test for it and make sure thats what it is before removing the head. First start the engine and get to operating temp with the radiator cap removed. Then remove all 4 spark plugs and thread a air hose into the spark plug hole. Apply about 80 psi into the cylinder very slowly because the engine might turn over once the air pressure is enough to move the piston. Watch for air bubbles coming out from the radiator cap. If you see any bubbles than you head is cracked/head gasket is blown. Let me know what you find out and I can help you with the repairs if you need it.
Mike.

if the heads warpt, and you put the $$$$ in the engine, get a bigger radater.

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86trooperT/D 2.2
84 L\B 4x4Diesel LS 2.2
84 S\B 4X4 gas rust bucket 1.9
86 L\B 4X4 gas 5 speed 2.3
the twins, 81 pup and 81 LUV both are diesel 2.2



The Energizer Bunny is trying to keep up, and is starting to gasp for air!!

You might try starting the engine and then studying the heat gauge. After it's warmed up if the needle rises & falls, walking back and forth that indicates a possible blown head gasket.

Before doing that start the cold engine with radiator cap removed. Watch the coolant as engine heats up. If there's a sudden rush of bubbles into top of rediator when thermostat opens that indicates a blown head gasket.

Also check for water in the oil or oil in the water, another indication of blown head gasket.

Another thing you might check is to be sure the lower radiator hose which is the return line isn't collapsing when thermostat opens.

Many shops will pressure/flow test a radiator for free, or at least for minimal charge. Worth a few bucks to save your engine.

lol, something he forgot to mention...
when you test a cylinder, it has to be at TDC compression stroke. You can tell by looking at the distributor w/ the cap off. When the rotor points to where the terminal for a cylinder's spark plug wire should be, that cylinder should be at TDC compression...
If you don't do this, all your compressed air will take a trip on out your exhaust valve....
-ret

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1980 4X4 LUV daily driver, as stock as can be.