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well i just bought a cam from delta those people are great. anyway has anyone replaced a cam i the g200z 1.9 if so does have pics of this or some pointers on how to change this with out taking it some where?

The guy to ask would be 800xl...he's our resident Isuzu guru and Encyclopedia LUVeteca...but getting your hands on any manual for the luv, pup, or impulse (Chiltons, Haynes, Clymer, etc.) is your best bet.

i found it simple just removed the valve cover and rocker arm assembly, SLOWLY via each blot loosened a little bit till that could be removed by hand, that way you wouldnt have to readjust your rocker arms, MAKE SURE THEY DONT GET CAUGHT IN THE VALVE SPRINGS, but if you really are unsure then tazman is right get a book, mi got mine for the torque specs

Wire the timing chain to the top sproket before you unbolt it from the cam. Then pull the rocker assembly as a single unit. Lube up the new cam really good (might want some assembly lube here, I've always just oiled them up really well, lobes and bearings, but I've never gotten a new or regrind cam) Then set the cam in the head, get it lined up with the sproket and reattach them lightly. Put the rockers back on, torque down the sproket bolt (4th gear and ebrake on should keep the motor from turning) then adjust your valves. If it was the same cam you might get away with not adjusting, but since it is a delta you will have to because the profile is changed.

I forget the torque on the rocker assembly bolts, but you should at least pick up a Haynes manual for the LUV which will have it. The Haynes for the LUV is actually a pretty good manual, unlike many of the other Haynes service manuals, and you can find it in most parts shops.

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95 Isuzu Trooper Daily Driver
86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good

Found this on Delta's site, was wondering if any of this was issue for anyone who's done the cam swap?

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HELPFUL TIPS
Tech Area

1. Always use new lifters when installing a new camshaft. The bottoms of the lifters are spherically convex ground, and the cam lobes are ground with taper. The mating of these two surfaces ensures that the lifter will rotate, thus reducing the chance of premature wear. If you install used lifters on a new or reground camshaft, early failure is almost certain.

2. Check piston to valve clearance. Insufficient clearance will cause valve to piston contact. This is a very expensive mistake. A minimum clearance of .100" on the intake valve and .125" on the exhaust must be maintained. Keep in mind that when you advance or retard the cam; it dramatically changes the clearance. Always check the clearance with the cam degreed in the correct position.

3. Be sure to use the recommended valve springs for the camshaft being installed. Either incorrect pressure or incorrect spring application will almost certainly lead to premature camshaft failure. Most aftermarket cams have higher lift than a stock profile. Therefore, stock valve springs will "coil bind" or "stack" before the cam reaches its full lift, causing the cam to fail immediately. This happens because there is not enough installed height with the stock springs. When a new cam is installed, always check the springs for "coil bind." With the valve at full lift, check the clearance between the coils. You need to maintain a minimum of .060" between the coils at this point. Even if the stock springs are not "binding," they are rated only for stock lift, when above stock lift is present, the "open" spring pressure is extremely increased. When excessive spring pressure causes cam failure, it can be the result of incorrect springs, as well as short valves, improper retainers, and many other factors unrelated to the camshaft or valve springs. The only way to ensure the correct pressure is to actually check the installed height

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