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How hard is this? When I had the rear brakes done they didn't replace them. They leak really badly and I'd like to get this fixed before I make it my daily driver.

It's not tough at all if you keep track of how the springs attach. The brake shoes will fit in the correct locations as long as you dont disconnect the e-brake cable.
First lightly loosen the lug nuts jack the rear of the truck up. Support the rear with jackstands. Remove the wheels and drums. You may need to back off the adjusters a bit to allow the drums to come off. Once the drums are removed, take a good look of how everything is hooked up. Only work one side at a time so you can reference the other wheel assy in case you get confused on how it goes together. Take apart the assy's to the point that you can get the cylinders off. Install the new cylinders and reassemble the brake assy. If the drums dont want to go on, hit the brake shoes toward each other to seat them better.
Now do the same work to the other wheel. After you have both brakes done and the drums are back on, you'll need to do some brake bleeding and initial adjusting. With the truck still on jackstands, install the wheels and snug down a couple of lug nuts. With the transmission in neutral, spin the wheel and listen if there's some brake drag. If not, take a screwdriver and adjust the starwheel until you feel some drag. Do this on both rear wheels. Once thats done, get some help to bleed the brakes. If you've never bled brakes before, i would suggest finding some help that has done this before. Check for leaks!
Finish installing the lug nuts tight and you can do some final adusting. Drive in reverse and pump the brakes to a complete stop. Do this a number of times to work the self-adjusters fully.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

I am having a few troubles doing this. The main issue is that i don't know how to get the pull-back springs off. And every time i try to disconnect the hydaulic line it seems to be stripping the nut. ANY help is much appreciated.

If you mean getting the springs removed from the backing plate stud, get a stout pair of vise grips and grip the straight part of the spring and pull them to clear the stud. It's not the best way to do it but it is effective.
If the brake line fittings at the wheel cylinders are stripping out on you, you might as well use some vise grips on them too. And replace the lines with new ones. New line is cheap and with having new cylinders, it makes good sense to have new fittings and line to a fresh wheel cylinder.
Take the old line sections to the local parts store and get lenghts that are the same or a bit longer.
Keep in mind that the fittings are metric. Using S.A.E. wrenches or buying S.A.E. brake lines and forcing them to metric cylinders spells trouble.
When bending brake lines to fit, be very careful as not to kink the line. Use a piece of pipe to PULL the brake line around the pipe to form a curve. Just bending the line around a pipe will allow it to kink.

_________________
Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
Current setup: 400 Small Block Chevy V-8/TH 350
9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.

Thnx will try!