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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 7:58 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 11:52 am
Posts: 555
Location: Shreveport, La
i got 3 questions first of all how do you get the top of the distributor cap, the rotor off? is there a screw holding it on or what?? next how hard is it to switch over to solid state ignition other then points? and finally my 2nd barrell aint opening at all. its not frozen shut its just not ingaging. why? please help cause i have to get this thing running its my daily driver.

thanks

billy


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 Post subject: Questions
PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 10:14 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2003 2:35 pm
Posts: 515
Location: NE Washington, USA
The secondary barrel is vacuum operated. The vacuum actuator (inboard rear has a diaphram that may be leaking or the 1/4" vacuum tube connected to it may be too loose or cracked and leaking. The distributor cap is held down by an inboard and outboard spring clip that pops off with a flat edge screwdriver twisted against it from against the cap. Once off, the rotor is in plain sight. 81 LUVs came with transistorized ignition that can be transfered to earlier models. Or a Mallory Unilite distributor, for about $300 new, will drop right in.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 12:41 am 
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da LUV masta
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Location: Shreveport, La
cool ill have to check that out. thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 2:37 am 
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Addicted to LUV
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Just to add a bit, the rotor pulls right off the shaft and only goes back on one way. Nothing holding it down.

The newer electronic distributor has the cap held down by screws, just FYI. If you see a screw on either side of the cap, you have a newer style distributor. The clips on the older style are pretty easy to pop loose with your hands too.

The second barrel of the carb will not open even by hand just sitting. You have to open the primary some by hand, then you can reach under and open the secondary by hand. It might seem frozen until you know the trick. That said, I have had one that was stuck closed hard. Once I worked it loose and got things moving with a little pentrating oil it started to work again though. In my case it was not moving because of vac leaks, and with it not being worked it stuck and wouldn't work even after the leaks were fixed.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 12:02 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 11:52 am
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Location: Shreveport, La
my dist. cap has to be the old one cause i can pop the cap off by hand. but also it has some screws on the side of the base. I tried to pull the rotor straight of and it wouldnt budge. so im guessing its either the screws on the side holding it or its those springs like richard was saying. but thanks for the info 800 cause i didnt know that stuff about the secondary cause i was trying to open it by itself without the primary being open. ill have to give that a try.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 10:39 pm 
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Your rotor must be just frozen onto the shaft somewhat, they are usually a bit of a stiff pull. Yours could have been on long enough to just kind of stick, I've never seen one with any kind of attachment other than friction and a couple of my trucks came with 20+ year old factory cap and rotor on them. Grab it, pull hard and it should slide off.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:42 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 11:52 am
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Location: Shreveport, La
hey i want to tell 800 and robert good shit man you hit it on the head. i took my cap off and replaced it and finally after pullin and pullin the rotor it finally came off and replaced it too. then i replaced the points and ( OL SPOT) ain't never ran like that before except from the factory.. anyways good stuff my friends i couldn't have done it without you. you hit the nail on the head.


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