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Alrighty heres the scenario, Ill start up my truck and it idles rough but normally for my truck. As soon as my stock temp gage reards that first white line (122*) it starts missing. Then it will eventually stall out. But if i keep the rpms above 2K it runs alright. Now this goes away after i hit full warm up (190*). Any ideas? Im planning on rebuilding my carb this weekend.
Oh and i have a 32/36 weber whith electric choke and an 82 electronic ignition. Thanks.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

Mine did something simular to that when I first got it. However I never really was able to pinpoint what it was. But my hunch it was something to do with the coasting richer solenoid connection, yours got one? Mine was rather odd in that it would dump fuel from the main booster in the carb as it idled - as the choke opened it would die, like there was NO fuel to the idle circuit. Another thing that seems common on these goofy carbs is the slow jet will get plugged and cause a leaner (too lean when cold) idle, and my truck would miss like crap till it was hot, if it idled at all. then I cleaned the goober in the slow jet, messed with the wire connector and magicaly it idles great.. These carbs are kinda screwy. I had mine off the truck at least 4 times, tore it down 3 times, and rebushed the damn throttle shafts before I found the clogged slow jet! %#@$ But it was worth the effort, I can bump the key on a cold 40 degree morning and it fires right off, and it passes smog. I can tune a holley on a hot rod and make it work magic at the track, but a little hitachi almost kicked my ass and wouldn't even idle, that cant be good! lol Good luck!

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LUV Truck Desserter!
76 Daily driver (SOLD)
73 LUV (rusting away at the moment)
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63 Nova
74 Camaro

Almost forgot, an old trick i used to do on these hitachi's is if the idle is rough, you can do a quickie kinda red neck trick to clear out the bleeds in the carb.. first method is with the air cleaner off, rev the motor while putting your hand over the carb opening, this will cause a huge spike in manifold vacuum - usualy enough to dislodge any goobers in the bleeds..

The second method (my high school auto shop teacher gave me this one) is to cross 2 plug wires, then crank it so it sneezes out the carb with the throttle closed (backfire) and viola, magicly it idles smooth in most cases..

Now this can be dangerous so be careful lol - Dont want someone writting in how they lost a finger or something, or burned their eye brows off. I could'nt get either trick to work on mine, so I ended up pulling the slow jet, and it had a goober caked so good I thought is was a machine mark left - but it was some metal shaving that was stuck in the bottom of the slow jet, you should see a hole in the bottom of the slow jet. fyi

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LUV Truck Desserter!
76 Daily driver (SOLD)
73 LUV (rusting away at the moment)
---------------------------------------------
63 Nova
74 Camaro

Could always be a vac leak too. I can't quite remember what your setup is like. If you still have the stock air cleaner, try plugging off the line to it, could be something up with the stuff on it. There are a couple of temp sensing vac valves in there for that flapper valve on the air cleaner snout. I've had a couple of those flapper deals start leaking vac on me over the years and it baffled me at first because it would run good or bad depending on how warmed up the truck was.

Other thing could be the valve for the EGR, I don't think you'd have that hooked up though, it is the one with two vac line ports that screws into the front of the intake.

Beyond that it seems like it would have to be the carb.

Im not running ANY vac. stuff on my truck right now. Last night i whent and disconected my vac advance for my dist and the brake booster to try to eliminate a vac leaks. Still does it but i think i have a vac leak in the brake booster becouse my truck would stumble a bit when i was hard on the brakes...
Oh and its a weber carb too, I dont have anything smog related onmy truck anymore either.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

Oh yeah, I forgot you had a Weber. That does simplify things some. I'd pull the idle jets on the carb, they are the brass screw looking deals that are on the L/R sides of the carb barrels. If nothing else it is 5 minutes with a screwdriver. Just unscrew them, pull the jet out of the end and blow em out. My 32/36 kept getting junk in the jets when I first started using it (been sitting, varnish build up) and that would cure it for a while longer. Not sure if it will help, but it can't hurt.

Beyond that, seems like it would have to be choke adjustment related or spark related. Did you convert to electronic ignition?

You can always diconnect and cap off the booster line to check it for leaks. You'll still stop, just have to push harder to do it.

yeah right now im running whith no power brakes, i think i might leave it that way becouse it will make the transition from LUV to 64 ford eisier
That aside i do have the electronic ignition form an 82 LUV. I have been thinking of cleaning the grounds on that and i bought a rebuild kit for the weber so ill be doing that this weekend. I was just looking for some ideas.
I think the weber may just be a little upset becouse i let the truck sit for about 7months and i off road it so its exposed to mud and dust and water.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

well hopefully i found my problem. I pulled my carb apart and found a poop load of dirt floating in the float bowl. Then i pulled the power piston off and what do you think i found? Black gas under it. So it just had one too many mud boggs on this rebuild. I was hoping it would be dirt in the float like that last time truck would load up on me.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...