Both the temp gauge and the fuel guage operate off of a little regulated voltage supply built into the gauge cluster. It is supposed to put out something like 7 volts to the gauges for them to operate correctly. What I think might be happening is something in the charging system is still not right and the battery is getting overcharged. When you sit at idle the alt doesn't put out as much juice, so the voltage comes back down where it is supposed to be. If I had to guess I would say you might have a problem in the alternator. Sounds like that is the only thing left that has not been replaced. Either that, or the wiring harness is shorted and putting 12v into the line for the temp gauge. The bundle that goes across the top of the firewall carries the main alt wire and it may have hooked itself to something else. It might also help to look at the fuel gauge for any odd behavior since they are powered by the same source. Reading high, or swinging past the F mark would be what I'd expect.
Unless I'm really tight on money and really sure I know the problem, I always try to replace the reg and alt together. Problems in one can cook the other, so I've tried to err on the side of caution and treat them as a unit.
If you have a voltmeter, try checking the voltage at the battery. Run the RPMs up a bit for a minute or so and see you get more than about 14v. If you do, then you know its in the charging system.
I picked up an infrared thermometer a while back and found it surprisingly helpful for troubleshooting cooling systems. You can read the temp of the thermostat cover and get a pretty close reading to what the gauge sender is getting. If you time things right, you can read the opening temp of the thermostat that way too. Something like that could tell you if you are truly overheating or whether it is just an instrument problem.
|