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 Post subject: my weber won't idle.....
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 10:01 pm 
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Location: East Sierra Nevadas, Nevada
took the truck out today and halfway home it started backfiring when i coast. then it wouldn't idle so i turned up the idle speed screw so it would stay running and it ran.....really rough.

kinda like when my idle stop solinoid in the stock carb went out. so i'll pull the jet and clean it tomorrow even though i rebuilt the damn thing when i got it.

can a timing chain jumping a tooth cause these symptoms?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 11:24 pm 
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I'll be watching this thread real close, cause I have the same symptoms, and still no answers. I'm starting to wonder if it is that carb after all, myself.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 1:24 am 
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Same problem, I put new points and condesor in, along with a remanned disty and did the timing. Ran perfect after that. Took me forever to get that fixed! I took apart the carb several times thinking that was it.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 9:44 am 
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narsisist.....is your valve cover off?

i was wondering if you had checked your valve timing. i haven't started working on my truck yet (just woke up) but i have an idea....i put some slick 50 in my rig yesterday and that's when the troumle started....

i think my chain sliped a tooth....i let you know if that's it .

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 11:45 am 
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No, but I will check it out as soon as I get home from work.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 4:34 pm 
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Are you guys running an e.g.r. valve? If so, it could be stuck open. I had this problem with the first V-6 i had. And from what i've seen in the bulletin board, it happens to stock motors too.
As for jumping the cam timing, i dont think thats it. If the cam is off by one tooth, the motor wont run or the cam will snap in 2.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 5:52 pm 
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Is there a way to check the egr without actually taking it off?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 6:37 pm 
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Try smacking it with a wrench. That will usually knock it loose to where it will seat itself again. If the motor is cold, you can slip your finger in to the diaphram housing to see if you can move it.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
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9" ford rear end/short bed/blue
What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 12:46 am 
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Just a comment on the one tooth off. It will run a tooth either way. I helped a buddy work on a truck that had been put together wrong in more ways than just the valve timing and it had been advanced a tooth. In the process of narrowing it down (before just taking the front cover off and getting it right) he had it back a tooth from correct as well. With the other problems that truck had I can't say much for how an otherwise working truck would run with the chain off a tooth, but it will run. Much more than one tooth and I think you'd start to run into valve/piston interference but I don't know how far you'd have to get.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 3:48 am 
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I was reffering to the early model engine. This is the case with the dual timing chain motor. I assumed that the later motor would do the same.

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Previous setup: 4.1 Buick V-6/TH 350
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What do Water, Electricity and Humans have in common... They all travel the path of least resistance.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 7:04 am 
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well i guess i got lucky.........that damn adapter has no way to lock the first set of tapered screws .......it was real loose.so i took a few scraps of wire and laid them in the screw holes before i tightened the base down, we'll see if that holds this time.

it seems like anything that could go wrong that day did....i lost the exhaust plug that day too.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 11:29 am 
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Location: Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
Next time you should plut the plug where you won't forget it!

That's just nutz! I know that I have three vehicles at the house that need parts. My Mazda, My Aerostar, and My LUV. So it is a ASE certification required to do shade tree mechanicals?

I know that I have had it with stupid tapered screws as well 8-)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 6:08 pm 
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admyank wrote:

So it is a ASE certification required to do shade tree mechanicals?




i wish shade tree could quailfy for ase..........wouldn't be building houses if it did....... :?

I'd realy dig workin' in a classic car shop though.......

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 10:22 am 
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That makes two of us.

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