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I'm trying to take off the brass fitting on the tube behind the exhaust manifold on my 80 Luv 4x4 (CA) It's a 7/8, and I only have a open end wrench. I found a pipe that fits over the wrench, so I can use as a cheater bar. When trying to get it to come loose the whole engine moves. I've tried sparying it with WD-40. I dont want to round the nut on the fitting. (going to putt a header on there, but want to be able to put stock equipment back on) Any suggetions?
If worse comes to worse, I could buy a flare nut wrench that big if sold.

The flare nut wrench is a good idea. The last time I took one of those loose I ended up crushing the nut with an open end wrench trying to remove it. I think it is actually a 22mm if I recall correctly. For cracking open rusted stuff like that I've had better luck with PB Blaster or other penetrating oils than WD40. WD works ok, but a good penetrant will work better.

I've never had a chance to try it, but I have a theory that you might be able to get it out a little easier with some heat. Seems every time I have to get one of them, its on a non-runner so it makes it tougher. Warm the truck up some so the manifold gets nice and hot, then carefully cool the nut some. Careful not to water down the manifold because it could crack, but a bit of water or melting an ice cube (or 4) on the nut should get enough temp difference to shrink it a bit and the manifold will stay hot and expanded. Might be just the difference you need to get it to come loose.

Just FYI, the intake side of that pipe is often just as hard to get loose, and harder to get to.

The 7/8 flare nut wrench fits good on the fitting. I actually got to the intake side through the wheel-well. and I ende up taking the exhaust manifold off with the fitting & pipe still attached! I have the manifodl in a vice, the flare nut wrench started to slip. I'm going to try and get a differnt penetrating oil. Don't know what I'm going to do about heat. I have a propane torch, would that work?

The propane torch should help at least, sometimes it don't take much heat to help a lot. A cylinder of MAPP gas might give you a hotter flame as well, I know it helps big time when sweating copper water pipe and such.

I'll have to remember the 7/8 flare wrench idea. Not often you run into a metric size that is close to a standard and I'm sure I can put my hands on a 7/8 flare nut wrench. I'll be fighting this same battle before long on my 2.3L Trooper so that bit of info will come in handy.

I ended up taking the manifold to a mechanic. Who removed it and planed the mounting surface for a 12 pack of beer!. They said it was tough, they had to heat it up and also use a crow foot that kinda looked like a flare nut wrench.

OH yea, I still need to know what the specs on for the threads so I can evntually find a bolt to put in the intake when I put a header on. Luvnit (spelling?) was going to get specs, but I don't want to keep bugging the poor guy.

Zane, I have tomorrow off, so I'm going to attempt to copy the plug I've got. It's just welded shut. I'll let you know. If it works and you want it I'll send it to you.

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Zane,
The plug came out good. Looks better than the one I got out of Luvnit's truck. So if you want it, let me know.

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The plug works great, I recomend it to anyont that is putting a header on there Luv.

Glad to hear it is working. I was going to make it look prettier and grind the top all the way flat, but I think it looks ok anyway.

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