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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:35 am 
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Luvtruck.com Wookie
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 8:21 pm
Posts: 680
Location: East Sierra Nevadas, Nevada
my carb was running great for a while ,then sputter sputter die.
I have tracked it down to the run on solinoid(I think) tested the harness to it and there's 13 volts all the way to the solinoid. when i checked the resistance in the solinoid it read 38ohms i know it's a simple electromagnet but i need to know how much resistance it should have.i checked it by hooking up a lead to the lead wire (red) and the other lead to the body of the solinoid.

the solinoid is the one next to the choke on the pass side of the carb in the rear. body's about 2 inches long and fits a 19mm.wrench ,has a needle valve.that(iguess)cuts off fuel when the ignition is off.

anyone that has an idling 1980 and an ohmmeter could really help me out by seeing what reading they get off there's

im supposed to take this truck to umpqua hot springs on the 24th and my wifey is iffy about my truck running odd.

I really don't want to take her ford

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Boobies!!! :D


Last edited by where's all the luv at? on Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 12:54 pm 
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da LUV masta

Joined: Mon Aug 11, 2003 2:35 pm
Posts: 515
Location: NE Washington, USA
One suggestion. While the engine is idling, wiggle the wiring harness in the engine compartment to see if there is an intermittent break in one of the wires. If so the engine should sputter. Couldn't find the internal resistance in either of my LUV manuals. I have a Weber on mine.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 8:21 pm
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Location: East Sierra Nevadas, Nevada
i've eliminated wiring harness problems and figured that the solinoid must be the problem as the issue is intermittent,sometimes ther's no problem and sometimes there is. typacly i'll get it running and then it dies when i shut the hood,(large vibration or shock) im thinking that the solinoid is weak or the problem lies in the fuel pump relays.

I just need the resistance numbers to rule out the weak solinoid problem ($39.00 to find out that it's not the solinoid)

if it's the relay then i could jumper the solinoid to the ign side of the fuse box and add a fuse for it

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Boobies!!! :D


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 8:21 pm
Posts: 680
Location: East Sierra Nevadas, Nevada
HA HA HA FIXED!

for the record the idle stop solinoid test new at 50-65 ohms 'but wait here's the best part.

pick-n-pull in rancho cordova had a 79 4x4 that looked like the wiring systen had fried before and was damn near new ,all the relays under the hood are replaced,the carb is now running strong(I can go the speed limit with all my tools! yaaa). and it's idiling rock solid.

now if i can only get it to quit burning a quart every 100 miles.

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