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i was just tearing down one of the engines i got, and it really sucks having all of this metric crap. all of my tools are standard, except for my tools that i got on my 14 birthday that is just a socket set from napa with 1/4 and 3/8 metric/standard sockets. it kinda sucks, but my dad has a lot of tools so i just use his. the clutch is really worn, so i was thinking about getting just a new disc and maybe trying to have the pressure plate sufaced, but i am not sure if that is a good idea. the head bolts are allen heads, i am pretty sure they are 10 mm, but they are tighter than hell, so i only have one loose. i have taken apart a lot of engins, and i can deffinatly say that this is the weirdest. that timing chane cover that also doubles as a mounting spot for the distrbuter AND the oil pump? that is just weird. i hope that i can remmeber were all the bolts go. the pistons are $25 a piece, and i dont have that kind of cash. so i am going to get the head off tommarrow, and i hope that it doesnt need bored, but i know it will need honed if i re-ring it. the place were i work has a hone (a real one, not just one on a drill) and i know how to run it, so i can do that. and i also know that they have problems with there heads being warped, so i am not sure how i will fix that if is comes up. any suggestions on any of this? i am new to this website and chevy luves, but i can work on stuff, i just need help somtimes.

Waaaallll, on the warped heads, you could always have them machined down back to speck, but then you would have to make other adjustments as well. It gets really tricky when the heads are warped, cause nearly everything gets thrown out of spec and it is harder on average to get them back into spec.

If you got a hone at work and are capable of working it, you are the man!

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- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

well, the guy i work for has a bore that measures off the crank or the deck, he has a mill, a machine to put guides and stuff like that in heads, rod hone, hone, etc., he taght me how to use the hone, but that is about it. in the haynes book, it says to use just a ball hone, so i didnt want to use the big hone and take off too much. the head bolts were real hard to get out. i broke a 10mm allen socket, and two10mm sockets, but finally got them all out. i think i will re-ring it, and have my boss check the head out, and call it good.

Well, good luck and I hope you don't have a warped head. If so, then you are gonna get more compression with stock pistons after you have the head milled and the block decked, (I worked as a machinist building engines and I recomend decking the block to make sure it is true).

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Hammer to fit, paint to match.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.
There's always room for duct tape and bailing wire.

WATCH YOUR PIEHOLE!!!!!!

yeah, i am pretty sure that the head is straight. everything is still good. there are no majore scatches in the cylinder bores, in fact,k i can still see the cross hatch. the bearings all look great, so the crank and rods and mains arnt screwed up.the crand has no scratches in it, and the the blok had no lip on the bores, so i dint nead a reamer.

yeah there are some wierd things on the 1.8L.
Sounds like your motor is in good shape. Good luck whith putting it back together.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

I have to take mine apart I am hoping to just find another motor like out of a series 7 or 8 and replace this series 2.

Good luck on your motor!

_________________
More LUV than one man could ever need - Spread the LUV!
- 1976 Chevy Longbed - Daily Driver
- 1981 Chevy Shortbed 4X4 - Needs Help!
- 1981 Chevy Luv 4X4 - Newly put together

is ur engine a 1.8 or 1.6? i have what sounds to be the same engine and mine is a 1.6. i have 2 of these engines and to be honest i havent had much trouble pulling them apart. i must ask one question tho, i cant seem to find the master link in the timing chain to remove it, all the links look the same

i dont think you need to find a master link to pull the timing chain apart then off. You just back out the tensioner and it should be perty easy to pull off. And all luvs came whith 1.8Ls.

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...

yeah, you dont need to find a masterlink to pull the timing chain, just pull the bolt out that holds on the timing gear on the cam, there is a little rebber gromet thingy that you can pull out of the head right there so you can access that bolt.once you have the bolt out, then you can pull the tiing gear off of the cam, and then get the chain off the timing gear on the crank, you dont need to pull the timing gear off the crank.

i just undid my tensioner. Just take a big screwdriver in the screw loking thing and turn it about half turn and it pops and and then no more tension and the chain about falls off

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1980 LUV 4x4, going under re-construction...