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 Post subject: oil leak
PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 5:29 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: baytown, texas
i'm having problems with a real bad oil leak. my luv has blown out 3 oil pan gaskets. this 1 is the worst. with it idling there is a constant stream of oil coming from the pan gasket. when i pull the oil cap off when the engine is running there is air blowing out of the oil fill hole. when the cap is off the oil doesn't leak out of the pan. i do have a vent on the valve cover and it isn't plugged up. it just seems like its not enough. my question is, is there supposed to be this much pressure inside the engine? or am i just having bad luck with pan gaskets? i know on an engine that has worn rings this can happen from blowby from the rings, but i just overhauled this engine and it has between 150-160 psi of compression. so that can't be the reason. can someone let me know if they know what can be causing this or let me know if their luv blows air out of the oil fill hole. this oil pan gasket is a pain to change since i have a 4x4 i have to pull the front axle. so i want this time to be the last time i have to replace it.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:12 pm 
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Location: McChord AFB WA by way of Spokane WA
well there will be some presure in the motor. When i started up my truck and pulled the fill plug there was some presure in my motor too. My only thought is that the pan gasket was over torqued or not torqued evenly.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 11:41 pm 
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da LUV masta
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Location: baytown, texas
when i put this pan gasket on i looked up the torque specs in my shop manual and i torqued all the bolts evenly.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 1:45 am 
all i can say is this, make sure that your pan and the surface wre the pan sits on the engine is spotless. also check the pan for straightness. maybe the seal that goes around the end of the crank is not seating properly in its position.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:03 am 
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Sounds like perhaps a pair of problems to me.

The pan being sheet metal is really prone to getting tweaked, either by over/under torquing it or just bumping it while it is off. On their next gas motor Isuzu switched to an aluminium pan, likely to avoid these problems. (And create new ones ;) )
I'd locate another pan somewhere, clean it up, check and recheck it for straight, and tap out even the smallest dings before putting it on. Also a good time to paint the outside of it and make things all pretty when it goes back together. A good gasket goes a long way too, as does some sealant. As you said, you don't want to do this again, so when in doubt replace everything involved.

The other thing is it does sound like there is too much pressure in the crankcase. I bet the PCV hose/valve deal is not working right. The LUV 1.8L has a thing like a PCV valve, only instead of being right on the valve cover, the business end of it is buried under the carb on the intake manifold. It is the smaller hose that hooks into the front right of the valve cover (not the big one towards the rear, that is supposed to go into the air cleaner). Take that hose loose and try squirting something like carb cleaner or SeaFoam DeepCreep down it. That might clear it out and help relieve the pressure from inside the motor.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 2:22 am 
man, i try to post as much as can to try to help people out, and i keep on worrying that i am going to say something stupid, and i am going to look like a fool, i am only 17, i have confidance issues. at least somebody agrees with me on something.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 1:18 pm 
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when i put this pan gasket on i looked up the torque specs in my shop manual and i torqued all the bolts evenly.
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what is the torque on the oil pan bolts...thanks. matt


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 3:09 pm 
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da LUV masta
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the torque specs for the oil pan are 45 in. lb. make sure not to get that confused with ft. lb. i found a simple solution i bought a breather oil cap and that releaved the pressure. the oil leak is just a drip now. so i'm gonna drop the front axle and replace the pan gasket and hopefully it will hold. thanks for all the help.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 7:06 pm 
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Sounds like you have too much blow-bye. Your pistons are pressurizing your crankcase faster than the pcv valve can relieve it. Could be stuck rings, or a hole in a piston. Does it run like shit?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 8:23 pm 
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^^^ I am agreeing with him ^^^ Blow by is a bad thing. And could be the cause to your problem. The PCV valve can only handle so much, try taking it out and just feeling how much pressure is coming out of there with the engine idleing this should give you an idea if this is the problem. But since you have just rebuilt it i am kinda of doubting it. Just a possiblity.

I remember the other summer i had a old 4 cyl. Wisconsin engine on a grain auger. It ran great, other than the blow by coming out of the crankcase would cause the oil filler cap to blow off. I used to just put it on loose and it would leak through, but i put it on tight one day and BOOM, it went flying out of there and landed in the trees somewhere....flew a good 300 feet or so :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 3:50 pm 
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da LUV masta
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i know its not blowby it has 160 lbs of compression which is 10 lbs from what it had new. it also runs perfect, idles smooth and has good power. i checked another luv and an isuzu pup and they both have pressure mine just has a little more. i'm guessing this is normal and i just have a little more since my motor is recently rebuilt. i think my problem is with the oil pan gasket itself. next time i'm not putting any silicone on it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 6:53 pm 
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Location: Guthrie, OK.
Good lord don't use silicone unless you use Permatex 2. That stuff is the shit for oil and fuel (yes fuel. Dont argue I have used it on a gas tank with no leaks). Hope you get the leak stopped up.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 8:55 pm 
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It could be a cracked block as well, but if that was the case it would be blowing more than oil...

I agree with the other guys to check the PCV valve. Besides tires and filters, the PCV valves need replacement on almost a 5-10 year cycle.

My 2000 Mazda needed one after 30,000 miles. I had the dealer eat the cost.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2004 10:01 pm 
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da LUV masta
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i didn't mean silicone i used the permatex with copper in it, its supposed to be the best oil resistant. my block is in good shape. when i pull the oil pan back off i'll check and make sure its straight.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 7:23 am 
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They have some gasket glue which is like a goop that you can use. It's red and I think it is Silicon that I put on damn near everything and it works really well.

If I can find my tube (if my Blue Tick did not eat it) I will tell ya what it is.

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