Check your point gap, LUV points are prone to burning/sticking together, then pulling apart leaving a crater on one side & a mound on the other. This changes the point gap, the smaller the point gap the harder it starts, if the point gap is too small the truck won't start at all. Plus the point gap also sets the dwell angle, which needs to be in the correct range to time correctly. Valve lash can also cause timing-like symptoms, set the lash before the timing. Bad plugs, wires, rotor & cap can cause the rough running, fix them before timing. If any of the smog system has been deactivated you can usually dial in more initial advance than a smog legal engine. I've found the best way is to gradually advance until the engine starts to ping under load, then retard until it quits, then check with a light & even mark so you can readily return it to that setting. This is only after the points, plugs, rotor, cap & valve lash are all good. Edit: That's an acceptable price for the FSM, it's actually a bit cheaper than the one I bought from GM when my truck was new.
_________________ '78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78. '87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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