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 Post subject: Alternators
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 7:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:59 am
Posts: 217
Has anyone used a higher amp alternator other than the stock 30-35 amp? I see that there are 40, 50 and 60 amp alternators for the Luv. With the amplifier (sound stereo system) Im running in this truck drawing a lot of power, I'd like to upgrade.

Before installing this audio system, I believe I burned out the new alternator I installed because of a bad voltage regulator. I installed a new regulator but the gen light is on (dim) and from my test, it's not charging.

I believe the alternator is the problem, so if I have to purchase another, I'd much rather buy a higher amperage one to handle the audio needs.

Id like to hear about how other alternators are working for these trucks.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 7:42 pm 
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Posts: 39
I wonder what the newer 4 cylinder Troopers use for an alternator? I would imagine one with A/C and power windows/locks would require a bigger alternator than our Luvs ever got. And with the 2.6 being essentially the same block (I think), it would stand to reason they should bolt right in....

Please let me know what you find out as mine will need a bigger alternator with the light upgrade, stereo, A/C, etc.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 7:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:41 am
Posts: 94
Location: Tacoma Washington
If you can fabricate stuff and don't need to keep the truck all LUV,the choices are endless. My project Luv is spinning a 110amp 1 wire Chevy alternator.(65a @ 600rpm) of course that precludes the idiot light in the dash (3 wire models are available),and deletes the external voltage regulator. I'm still using the vr to actuate the fuel pump until I rewire the truck and delete the relay in favor of a Ford inertia switch. I didn't shop too hard for the alternator,so I might have been able to find one with the Luv size mounting ears instead of the standard Chevy 2" wide ears I got. No problem though,like I said,it's a project truck.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 9:07 am 
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 199
Location: Seattle
I have two small amps. I think they are older Alpines, each can't be more than 200 watts. I have a 5 year old Autozone brand battery, and an O'reilly brand alternator. I also have a digital voltage meter on my dash. With the lights on, at 900 idle, the voltage drops to 11.5 or so but it comes back strong when I go. I've never had the truck die because of no voltage with my stereo on, never had a dead battery unless I leave the lights on. I frequently drive with everything on in the car. Lights, stereo, blower fan on high, wipers, dash cam.

It would never make any sense to me to try to change any of that away from stock.

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1979 4wd Mikado. Rebuilt G200, Weber, Offenhauser, Pacesetter. Electronic Distr. Trooper 5sp + transfer case.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 10:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:41 am
Posts: 94
Location: Tacoma Washington
Yeah,it sounds like your system is operating properly. Most alternators put out their 14.4v at driving rpm,not idle. The alternator powers everything on the truck while it is running. The battery only "works" when the engine is off. Otherwise it's just another load,like the amps. I'm sure you know all this. Your amps,if they are older class AB, are pretty hungry,power wise,even if not super powerful. Of course,newer class D amps put out much more of the power they draw,and aren't nearly as hard on the electrical system. Not sure what the Luv alternator is rated for,stock,maybe 55-60a at 1200+rpm. That's why I picked up the one I did,because of its low rpm rating. I used this model back on n the day on my old stereo comp car and it powered my 1000w plus system just fine. I'm not planning on a bigazz system in this truck,cuz I'm old and retired now,and the Luv will have all lower draw LED lighting,but it will have all electric heating and seats to offset the roof being gone.lol Most people overlook the basics when using a lower power alternator with even a low power sound system,and hate their lights dimming. Upgrade / upsize all the power cables from the alternator to the battery,battery to the starter and all the ground cables to the block and battery. It won't replace a bigger alternator but it sure won't hurt it either.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 10:49 am 
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 10:41 am
Posts: 199
Location: Seattle
PS the headlights on my truck cause the biggest amp draw. It can cause it to drop from 12.8 to 11.5 at idle. Stereo with 2 amps, 100w kicker 6x9s and a L5 8" sub don't cause any voltage difference at all.

I just replaced them with brand new Sylvania extra life bulbs, and they still cause a huge draw.

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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:03 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:41 am
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Location: Tacoma Washington
No doubt. Halogen bulbs,even in a sealed beam light are hungry. I ran an LED headlight on my motorcycle because it was a really low output alt,but the headlight only drew 1.2 amps. Worked great in that situation,but $200 per light would be more than 50% of the cost of my truck.lol


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:40 pm
Posts: 39
https://www.amazon.com/XS-Performance-L ... Q555E9EG1N

$100.00 for the pair. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 11:56 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:59 am
Posts: 217
I should have taken a picture of the 60amp alternator before I installed it. Here it is anyway. Connections seem to be straight forward. The VR two wire plug, then 12v and ground. Do you guys agree to what you can see as far as connections. What threw me off is that the condensor is hooked up to where I think the 12V connection should be and the ground goes to the screw that has the Phillips head on it?

There is another single pin connector that shows a "P". Any idea as to what that might be. I'm trying not to mess this up. The new VR comes in tomorrow.

Thanks for the input.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:38 pm 
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Or the "P" is for 12V and where the condensor is wired is the ground?


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:52 pm 
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I was told BA, which is connected with a condensor is for 12V, the "P" is for the gen idiot light and the E is for ground.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:30 pm 
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I was supposed to get the new voltage regulator today and was sent the wrong one. I’m trying to get one with matching wires to the stock harness. When you order the VR, pictures show correct colors but when you receive it, wire colors are different. I don’t think it matters but because of this charging problem that I haven’t figured out, I’m skeptical.

Anyone buy a VR regulator lately and notice the wire color difference? Is there a way to check A VR? The VR I have now is new along with the alternator but the system is not charging. I bought the new alternator first using the old VR. Gen light was on. I bought the new VR, installed it and gen light still on. And this is where I am now. The wire harness on this truck has not been chopped up, it’s actually nice.

Suggestions?


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 10:30 pm 
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I’ve been spending time everyday researching on the internet and looking in the LUV manual for answers and to familiarize myself with the charging system. I’ve read a lot of posts with frustrations and with some, it has been something simple overlooked. I ordered another voltage regulator.

At the battery I show 12.59 volts. Everywhere I test, at the fuses and at the positive on the alternator, the same volts. I read on a thread where it said the white/red wire should have 14 volts and the white/green 7 volts. I don’t have that, way below those numbers. I forget the exact numbers right now.

Also, when the truck is off and key in the on position, I put the test light on the white/red wire at the harness plug by the voltage regulator, at the relay resistor and below the dash where the plug it’s on is not connected to anything. I believe it’s for the AC system that I don’t have. The test light is very dim at all three points. Is that normal? Should the wire light up bright for 12volts when the key is on without the engine being on?


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 10:41 pm 
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Picture


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 06, 2017 6:40 pm
Posts: 39
Have you done the Fuse Box Repair?

It's the only thing I can think of.


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2017 11:19 am 
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Yes, completely cleaned when I took the harness out. Is the white/red wire suppose to test low voltage that way?


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 Post subject: Re: Alternators
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:33 pm 
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I installed the new voltage regulator and the 60 amp alternator is working good. No problems. Hooked the amplifier back up and no problems. Thank you for your help.


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