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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 4:09 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Portland, OR.
Hi all,

I have only rebuild single cylinder motorcycle engines before this LUV.

I have installed a g180 back into a 1980 luv after replacing all of the internal engine component. It starts up, however on the last test drive it would shake really bad in early RPM's and has no power. The current set up (which is how I bought it) is g180block, g200 head, weber 32,36. It is timed at 12 degrees btdc.

I can bring it back down to six but I've read about people advancing it and getting better riding results.

Oh, I tore the engine apart because it got a knock from sucking a bit of the head gasket from in between 3 and 4 in. Decided to replace the internals since I was there. Before the knock it was responsive and didn't shake.

I have done what I can with the vacuum lines (with all the knowledge I can purge from the internet), but for some reason I think they are still messed up. (I am consulting the hood diagram, haynes manual and will be receiving a gm manual soon)

Am I missing something?

I appreciate all the help I can get.

Thank you.

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Pony | 1980 Chevy Luv


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 8:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:07 pm
Posts: 906
Location: N W Arkansas
The only vacuum lines a LUV engine needs to run properly are to the brake booster, the distributor advance, the PCV port & the charcoal canister at the fuel return provided it's even still functional. Everything else can be removed/plugged. You might try simplifying the vacuum maze at least temporarily, see if you can eliminate vacuum as the cause of the problem, then restore it all if emissions requires.
Try backing off your timing, see if it smooths out, then advance in stages until you get the best power without spark knock under load, 12 degrees may not be the best advance setting for your engine,
especially with the block/head combination you have. A G200Z head on a G180Z block lowers the compression (& power) somewhat from what a G180Z head/ G180Z block combination would produce.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2016 4:09 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Portland, OR.
Dumb dumb figured it out. The spark plug wires were out of sequence! Redid them all and the sound was amazing.

Thanks Oldestisuzuist for the help you offered. I will continue to nail down some of the things you mentions.

-Pony

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 7:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:20 pm
Posts: 210
Location: Phoenix Arizona
Hey Oldest.....What timing advance are you recommending for a stock 1.8? I think I'm at about 8 degrees.....whatever stock calls for. Will a further advance help milage and performance? Thanks....Don


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:12 pm 
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donhaywood wrote:
Hey Oldest.....What timing advance are you recommending for a stock 1.8? I think I'm at about 8 degrees.....whatever stock calls for. Will a further advance help milage and performance? Thanks....Don

Don't know, I haven't run a stock 1.8 since the early '90s.
I run as much advance as possible without ping, when it starts to ping back it off until it quits plus just a tad more. This will give you the most power available from a timing adjustment. More power doesn't necessarily mean better fuel economy.

_________________
'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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