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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:33 am 
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Ok, so I own a 1980 luv 1.8L 4x4. I need help with finding out what transmission fluid and t-case fluid it takes? 2nd question, I'm replacing my rear pinion seal and I need to know what the bolt torque specification is? Thanks for your help.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:03 am 
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Location: N W Arkansas
Tranny/t-case uses motor oil, 10w-40 is typical or whatever you use in the crankcase will work fine. Do not use gear lube. There is only one drain & one fill plug, they share lube. A 5sp takes just under 5 quarts, so yours will be somewhat less than that.
As for the pinion seal, if you are asking about the nut on the pinion shaft that holds the yoke on, there is no torque specification. There is a spec for the initial torque of 200+ ft-lbs to collapse the crush sleeve, then the nut is further tightened to set the pinion bearing preload using a fish scale with only the pinion installed. This can't be done with the differential in the truck & the ring gear installed. So what you have to do is put the nut back as close as possible to where it is now. Count the threads protruding from the nut & mark the yoke, housing, shaft & nut with alignment marks, anything that will get the nut back to the same place. The nut should be staked to the threads, so note this position also. Then you can remove the nut (it should be 30mm/1-3/16"), pry out & replace the seal, then replace the yoke & return the nut to the same position it was & re-stake the threads. Test drive to see if you got it right. You don't really know until you drive it, but if the rear starts howling you didn't. If it howls on coast, quieter under power try tightening the nut a bit at a time & re-test until it stops howling. If it howls under power, lessens when coasting the nut is probably too tight & the crush sleeve has been collapsed too far, loosening the nut won't fix it, you'll need a new crush sleeve & bearings installed. A replacement 3rd member is cheaper & easier.
Here is a sort of shortcut that has worked on two occasions: Do all the counting/marking etc to get the nut back to the original tightness; then when installing the nut torque it to 100 ft-lbs, then check the alignment marks. In the two instances mentioned this torque method put the nut back to it's original position as well as I could get it by any other means, so I staked the nut to the threads & test drove. The first time the staking wasn't sufficient, the nut loosened after a few days & had to be re-tightened. The second time worked. If this initial 100-ft-lbs still doesn't put the nut back to it's original position tighten it incrementally until it is, then note the torque it took, use that as starting point for any future repairs.
Note these cautions: (1) if you overtighten the nut you will ruin the pinion bearing, (2) if you don't stake the nut to the threads the nut will loosen over time.
The pinion seal should be Timken #474133

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2016 3:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:22 am
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Awesome, thanks for your info and time. This website will help me bunches with my build.


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