LUVTruck.com

That is a bandaid fix it will burn out your ignition switch or pump. You need a relay triggered by the switch and drawing power from the fuse box so it isn't sucking power thru the ign switch and heating it up. I tried the same thing and burned out 3 fuel pumps and an ignition switch before i added a relay
Also you have a fuel return line so a regulator isn't really necessary and the pump doesnt put out enough pressure to overwhelm the system

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

I'll have to see what he did. I know he spliced into one of the plugs. Not sure if it's going to a relay or not. I was wondering what would happen if it was just constantly running while the key was on.

Also, truck still has the issue after it's been running. Annoying.

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Well i go on vacation Friday morning and get back the 6th so if you are free at all that weekend I can cruise over in my luv and see what I can see. It may be a slight misadjustment in the carb screws or another problem. Can rule out a vacuum leak with my tester and try to tuning procedure for the carb from there.
And i believe the fuel pump always runs reguardless when the truck is on, with the return line the fuel level is controlled by the floats and the excess goes back to the tank it doesn't start and stop to maintain pressure (pretty dang sure anyway....)

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

You mentioned the alt may be going out. If the alt is not charging the fuel pump will not run.

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Certified pilots, looking down on people since 1903.

Luvr! I knew you'd pop up eventually. :-D

I can hear the pump running and feel the pump running if I stick my hand on it. But, I did notice it wasn't running a few times when I turned the key on. Maybe I'll replace the alternator and see what happens.

and love, yeah, I'll let you know. I work swing shift 4 to midnight on friday, then 6am on saturday. Might be down for sunday so we can take a look at it. Would love to see that badass luv! I'll be messing around with it some more tonight and will keep this thread updated.


Should I look into a 40 amp or 30 amp alternator?

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I got a 50amp when i replaced my old one but a 30-40 should be fine unless you are running extra lights, big stereo system etc. As i see it with electrical systems a little overkill is better than a little undersized, I can test your alt and see if it is charging consistently before you go buy another one. Oreillys will test it for free too but you gotta remove it for that

And eh, it isn't that badass but it is more fun that it was before for sure just ugly as sin at this point.

Just let me know around the end of next week of you are gonna be free that Sunday I never work weekends so I will be free

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

if the bypass the pump to pump gas and you have a problem (or fire from a broken glass filter) it will pump gas into a problem
its done that was for a safety reason....these truck really are wired in sequence......maybe check out the fuel relay

carb leaking yea check into rebuilding it, some areas for now but gaskets dry up and shrink which cause leaks maybe you can get away w/ tighten up for now

my fuel pump is only on when i crank the key to the far right too > Check the beginning of this video when i start mine up.

I also made a video yesterday showing my rubber connection i called it a " STOP N STUDY VIDEO " AS when you see a point of interest you can stop the video for clarity on certain line hook ups. sound isn't the best but video is mostly clear
I plan on getting ago pro for my video needs it will help w/ the sound

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkXUGaFDqjk

& my idle screw marked " I " was just under 2 1/2 turns out
https://www.facebook.com/My1977IsuzuChe ... =3&theater

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Previously owned 2 Luvs) 75 & 77 Fleet-side
3rd 77 Step fixing up aka The Yellow Submarine to Luv Ms (Sun)Shine=)
98 GMC Gas Guzzler~>The reason 4 my ~>3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU =)
66 Chevelle The Oldest of all the vehicles I owned

It seems like more problems are starting to pop up then I'm able to fix at the moment. ha. Now there's a loud whirring noise when starting, it won't stay started as long as that noise is happening. If I raise the RPM's for a bit the noise will go away, then it will stay running.

Also have noise coming at high RPM's in 4th gear, assuming transmission. Stereo cuts out at high volume with the new amp I'm running, even with just 2 speakers and the gains turned town. Lights are getting bright and dim still and causing a major issue. Mechanic at work said there's a relay on the left side of the engine bay towards the firewall hidden behind a cover that could be the culprit. Anyone know what this relay is?

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You mean the voltage regulator? Metal box with a bunch of wires heading to the fuse box? Or the relay by the horn?

If you are running an amp with a lot of power thru the stock system you are likely maxing out the circuit and the alt can't keep up. My old system roasted my alt really fast

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

stock wiring order is important as rewiring certain things, like the fuel pump &or by passing the relay to a constant on/hot w/ the key, a different way well it doesn't complete the 1-2-3 order of how things work on these trucks.

when the motor stops/dies so does the fuel pump so it doesn't keep pumping fuel as if in an accident and line broke it could pump gas on a hot engine to start a fire...stock fuel pressure is also at a low psi

as far as the radio goes i always leave them out/off till i work the bugs out of the running gear in the vehicle so i can hear them.
i would stay focused on 1 area at a time it makes it easier to trouble shoot

double-check fluids 1st (2bsafe) on that other noise you hear. You can use a large long screwdriver to help find noise sources, place near noise on motor while listen to the handle.

here's those 3 relays labeled
https://www.facebook.com/My1977IsuzuChe ... =3&theater

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Previously owned 2 Luvs) 75 & 77 Fleet-side
3rd 77 Step fixing up aka The Yellow Submarine to Luv Ms (Sun)Shine=)
98 GMC Gas Guzzler~>The reason 4 my ~>3rdLuvNext2a66MALIBU =)
66 Chevelle The Oldest of all the vehicles I owned

Ah I was imagining left side from the driver seat not the front of the truck.

3rdLUV nice work on the labeling that will definitely save some people a lot of headaches

And Chris if that relay was bypassed and the pump is getting power along another line that relay may be getting back fed power and buzzing. I had one I added in that jeep power center I added to my truck. I had it wired wrong and it would make a constant buzzing/high frequency sound because it was being fed power the wrong way, and when the truck was off it would continue to get power and kill my battery. Was an easy fix but it cost me a battery after about a dozen times going dead sitting.

Hopefully we can find something next time you are free

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

Yep that's it! Although I didn't know there were 3 relay's back there. I might rewire that back to the way it was. Seems like it's added more problems then even before, although the truck does stay running now.

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Well that fuel pump "fix" didn't work too long. Pump died on me while I was driving now I can't drive. Sweet! Time to replace it and go back to the original way it was.

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Yeah man it doesn't take long. That is more of a "my relay just died and I'm 40 miles from the nearest auto parts store" fix.
On the plus side the pump is easy to get to, in tank pumps are a lot more time consuming to replace.

May as well replace the transmission oil while it isn't running and you are under it

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Luvless
1980 Mikado-Sold.

1993 Lexus SC400 my Daily
2004 Yamaha WR250F my new love in life
2016 Toyota Camry my girls ride

As far as the box on the passenger side goes, I was having problems with the fuel pump as you are, so I opened up that cover with the relays and took a look. The previous owner took out the fuel pump relay and jumed a wire between connections on the plug to keep the pump running all the time. I replaced the relay, and now when the carb is full, the fuel pump stops pumping.

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Yellow 74 LUV. Factory a/c
Blue 79 LUV. Factory a/c almost there
Silver 78 LUV. California emissions donor car now gone
White 79 LUV. Factory a/c

My trucks run perfect 60% of the time all the time
Tucson, AZ

Also along with the alternator, I have a big stereo and when I had the stock alt my lights would dim badly and the stereo would cut out. It actually would die because the alternator would load too much at idle. I bought a 100 amp one wire alt and after that I haven't had any battery problems. Cost me like 135 I think

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Yellow 74 LUV. Factory a/c
Blue 79 LUV. Factory a/c almost there
Silver 78 LUV. California emissions donor car now gone
White 79 LUV. Factory a/c

My trucks run perfect 60% of the time all the time
Tucson, AZ

I'll look into getting a bigger alt. If the truck is off, I can turn my stereo up all the way, and increase the gains on my amp without issue. Lights are nice and bright, blower is strong, but as soon as I start the truck everything goes kaput. I replaced the alternator a couple years ago and everything was fine, until the bearing went out, so I reverted back to my original alt.

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I have the optima alternator from oreilleys. With two amps and the wipers blower and headlights on I still have 13.5 volts at idle on my digital gauge.

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1979 4wd Mikado. G200, Gemini 250 Turbo, Clive Cam, Offenhouser Intake, JE Pistons, maXspeeding Forged Rods, Blow Thru Weber, Trooper 5spd, Intercooled

well if you are having electrical problems i might be able to help.i had something like that in my truck and i got it to run.The first problem i encountered and took me a while to figure out was i had a vacuum leak underneath the intake manifold there is a piece of the smog equipment idk what it is called.All i remember is that it would stay open and allow air to come from the smog pump into the engine causing it to die whenever i let go of the gas.once i plugged it the truck idled smooth and didnt die on me till i ran into electrical problems.It is the one with the thick hose that runs to one port of the smog pump.

On my electrical problem i found it was my fuse box causing a bad connection turning off the truck and cutting off the power to the fuel pump.I have the 6 fuse block or the short block as some people call it.So what i did to temporarily fix it cuz i was stuck 30 miles away from home and night time i ran a wire.I ran a wire from one of the known good fuses directly to the ignition coil positive side.If you read the schematics you would see that the positive wire on the ignition coil also feeds the fuel pump.And if i remember correctly i used the second fuse closest to the firewall to feed power to the coil.It turns off and on with the key so you dont have to worry about the pump staying on as it turns on with the key.My truck worked like that for years till i finally decided to fix the fuse box and wire in new relays.Not hard just read the schematics you will be fine.

Hope this helps.

I'm going to try and get this thing back together. My daily driver died on me, ended up getting a 2015 Sorento, but now only have the one car for the wife and 2 kids. So I'll try to fix the issue and rewire the pump back to the way it was. Prepare for tons of questions over the next few weeks. Thanks everyone!

How would I go about testing the fuel pump relay, or what kind of relay would I need to purchase to replace it?

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