LUVTruck.com

You do realize they sell alternator rebuild kits if it's just bad bearings or brushes. If your on budget there really cheap like $10 - $20. You can bench test a relay with a battery and some jumper wires test light, or ohm meter. Basically a standard 4 prong relay has power on, ground, input (high voltage), output (high voltage). When your signal wire sends power it close's relay switch and connects your high voltage. This of it like an automatic switch. There will be numbers like 86 on it they correspond to what that terminal is. Google 12v relay and it will explain it better. Sorry I'm visual person myself been a while since I messed with relays.

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I have forgot more than most will ever know.

Finally got around to this, but immediately gave up again. I rewired it back to the way it was stock so the fuel pump isn't constantly on. I can start the truck, once it's warmed up, it runs, until I turn it off, then start it up again, it will just continuously die on me, unless I'm keeping the RPMS high. I've tried changing the idle, mixture, vacuum lines, etc. I know I have the vacuum lines set up correctly now, as I didn't realize I had a routing diagram on the hood. But it still dies. So I'm almost 100% positive it has to be the carb. I need to just rebuild the damn thing already. I just don't have the patience or finesse to rebuild these things. I think I'll look into another carb to temp replace it, or just get a weber.

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If I were to get a 32/36 weber. What if I found one that wasn't a dgev? maybe a dfev? or some manual one? I may have found a cheap one on craigslist but I'm hesitant to buy the wrong thing. haha

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Yes, I believe it was the DGEV that you should snag. Its the one with the electric choke.

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Yellow 74 LUV. Factory a/c
Blue 79 LUV. Factory a/c almost there
Silver 78 LUV. California emissions donor car now gone
White 79 LUV. Factory a/c

My trucks run perfect 60% of the time all the time
Tucson, AZ