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 Post subject: Clutch will not engage!
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 10:59 pm 
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I just replaced the clutch on my 1975 LUV and both the master and slave cylinders along with it. The problem right now is the clutch will not engage when I press the pedal down. I can change gears with the engine off but once the truck is running the gears just grind.

I am 98% confident I installed the clutch disc the correct orientation. I have both cylinders bled and adjusted to their maximum. I have looked in the bell housing with the fork boot removed and can see the throughout bearing move the pressure plate about 1/8 inch or so.

I have a couple reference manuals for my LUV which recommend a clutch pedal height of 5.9" - 6.3" (Chilton) and 6.3"- 6.7" (Haynes). The maximum height my clutch pedal will adjust is about 6 inches... My theory is that maybe if the pedal could adjust the fractions of an inch more it would engage the pressure plate enough to release the clutch plate. On the other hand that seems like an odd solution since it would require modifications to the truck to work. What is the clutch pedal height of some peoples' LUVs using the following method

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 05244b.gif

I am open to any recommendations as to what the problem may be.

Thanks :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:04 pm 
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Location: Germantown, TN (right next to ElvisTown)
CanadianBacon wrote:
I just replaced the clutch on my 1975 LUV and both the master and slave cylinders along with it. The problem right now is the clutch will not engage when I press the pedal down

That's DISengage -- but whatever.

I'd be willing to bet you still have some air in your lines. If you have a helper, have him/her work the pedal while you open/close the slave bleeder in the following sequence:
1. Open the bleeder open, then have the helper push in the clutch pedal, to the floor and hold it there.
2. Close the bleeder, then have the helper release the clutch pedal.
After doing this a couple of times, check the clutch master cylinder. Do NOT let it get low, because you'll have to start over if it gets too low. Repeat this until a steady stream of fluid comes out the bleeder (no air). When it comes out in a stream, close it up and test it.

Jack

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 12:46 pm 
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Happened to me a couple of years ago.......sure enough, I installed the clutch disk backwards. I wrestled around with it for a couple of hours but finally conceded and 'pulled er out again'. Hated to but had to.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:55 pm 
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I bled the system twice with and theres no air in the system. I just took the transmission off and I had put it on the RIGHT way so that is not the problem either. Im stumped, is there anything else that might be wrong with it?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:01 pm 
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What happens if you pump the clutch pedal several times before trying to put it in gear?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:40 am 
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I had a family friend who is also a mechanic take a look at it. It turns out it had what he called a "fuzzy clutch". What happens is there are little "fuzzes" left over from the manufacturing process on the clutch disc and sometimes, like in my case, they bind to the pressure plate and flywheel preventing the disc from disengaging. What he had me do was put the truck in first gear with the engine off and parking break on, start the truck with the clutch pedal down and slowly work the pedal with the gas to cause the disc to slip and rub off a portion of the material.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 11:59 am 
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Nice


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