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 Post subject: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:28 pm 
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Ok so im trying to lower the front of my Luv MORE, i have no idea how to do it since i havent seen a tutorial or someone to show me how to do it.

Ive read this in a topic i saw here on the site........


""The adjuster is on the very rear of the torsion bar, it's a large hex head bolt pointing up. Take the weight off the front suspension, lube the bolt, tighten to raise, loosen to lower, one full turn equals about 1/4" change in ride height"".

Where is this area that's mentioned in the paragraph above exactly located at? Can anyone show me pictures of it? It'll really help me out, Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 11:59 pm 
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The torsion bar is a long round rod about 1" in diameter, it's splined on each end, the front end fits into a socket in the lower control arm, the rear end fits into a socket that is the tension adjuster. The adjuster is attached to a crossmember just about under the seat.
Changing the ride height changes the camber, so you need an alignment afterwards.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:50 pm 
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oldestisuzuist wrote:
The torsion bar is a long round rod about 1" in diameter, it's splined on each end, the front end fits into a socket in the lower control arm, the rear end fits into a socket that is the tension adjuster. The adjuster is attached to a crossmember just about under the seat.
Changing the ride height changes the camber, so you need an alignment afterwards.


I think i found the part thats connected to the adjuster is it this one(pic)........................


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 6:37 am 
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That big hex head is the adjusting bolt. From the angle of the lower control arm & the adjuster in the picture the truck has already been lowered, so there may not be much adjustment left.

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'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:33 am 
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oldestisuzuist wrote:
The torsion bar is a long round rod about 1" in diameter, it's splined on each end, the front end fits into a socket in the lower control arm, the rear end fits into a socket that is the tension adjuster. The adjuster is attached to a crossmember just about under the seat.
Changing the ride height changes the camber, so you need an alignment afterwards.


Got it man, now i just need time to do it, Thanks for the help.


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:35 am 
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Jaram10 wrote:
oldestisuzuist wrote:
The torsion bar is a long round rod about 1" in diameter, it's splined on each end, the front end fits into a socket in the lower control arm, the rear end fits into a socket that is the tension adjuster. The adjuster is attached to a crossmember just about under the seat.
Changing the ride height changes the camber, so you need an alignment afterwards.


Got it man, now i just need time to do it, Thanks for the help.


Around how much more would you say you think i have left to lower? Plese say at least 1 inch!!??


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 Post subject: Re: Lowering the front
PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:42 am 
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Look at where the lower control arm contacts the bump stop- any gap is what it can be lowered. If you continue to turn the adjuster after contacting the bump stop you will just unscrew the adjuster bolt from the adjuster & remove the torsion bar tension from the suspension- you don't want to do that. When you lower the truck down to the bump stops you will have no more up suspension travel, only downtravel. Ride will be unbelievably harsh, especially so if you're running high pressure tires. The shocks no longer function on compression because the suspension is bottomed, a bump can actually bounce the front tire off the ground, which can be unsafe at speed. You can grind down the bump stop or even remove it to gain a bit more uptravel- or lowering- but you will eventually reach the limit of this type suspension geometry & only increase the harsh ride & associated safety issues.


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_________________
'78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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