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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 6:26 pm 
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In the pictures attached is showing what is missing (no not the air cleaner and dish, I have that)

I need the piece that allows the throttle cable to work and makes idle possible (can't think of the name of it... Throttle cable bracket?) I might be able to rig something up but would prefer the right piece.

Does anyone have one or know where I can pick one up ? Auto Parts stores and RockAuto don't seem to have one.

If you have one, PM me a price + shipping to Southern Arizona, 85615. Paypal ready.

Could I also get a pic of one in its natural location so I know what I'm working with? (This is my first time on a LUV)

Thanks in advance!


Attachments:
Photo0123.jpg
Photo0123.jpg [ 132.78 KiB | Viewed 11561 times ]
Photo0122.jpg
Photo0122.jpg [ 151.57 KiB | Viewed 11561 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:11 pm 
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Something like this right?

Had some metal strap laying around so I threw something together. It was a quickie but it will do until I find the proper piece.

Still would be interested in the correct throttle cable bracket! Shipped to 85615!!!


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Photo0175.jpg
Photo0175.jpg [ 159.75 KiB | Viewed 11546 times ]
Photo0174.jpg
Photo0174.jpg [ 149.37 KiB | Viewed 11546 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:36 pm 
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Lets try this one more time. GO TO THE INFO SECTION OF THE WEBSITE. There you will find the factory parts manual. You might want to buy a factory manual off of EBay, they are cheap. Here is a hint, there is another part that goes on the bracket you are missing, and the thing you welded looks nothing like the part you need.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:45 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Lets try this one more time. GO TO THE INFO SECTION OF THE WEBSITE. There you will find the factory parts manual. You might want to buy a factory manual off of EBay, they are cheap.


^ This isn't needed in your post. Let me remind you, this is a forum. "An assembly, meeting place, television program, etc., for the discussion of questions of public interest."

Luvrv8 wrote:
Here is a hint, there is another part that goes on the bracket you are missing, and the thing you welded looks nothing like the part you need.


^This is all you should've posted.

Already did a test fit, and trial. Works perfectly fine, umad bro?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:48 pm 
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Not mad and not your bro. Now you come here and tell us the rules? I hope the door hits you in the ass twice as you leave. I am willing to bet that many of the very knowledgeable members here might not want to help you. Sounds like you already know everything.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 9:59 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
Not mad and not your bro. Now you come here and tell us the rules? I hope the door hits you in the ass twice as you leave. I am willing to bet that many of the very knowledgeable members here might not want to help you. Sounds like you already know everything.


How am I telling you the rules? I'm pointing out to you the purpose of a forum... Even this section, it was apparently made for giving advice on stock trucks and repairs, which is what I am asking for here.

Honestly, no disrespect, but I know enough that I don't necessarily need this forum, and can figure this truck out on my own... I figured I'd jump on the bandwagon and make it more fun for us all. I don't care if the veterans don't want to help me, no disrespect to them of course. I'm only here to share in the LUV. ;)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:08 pm 
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I think what Luvr8 was trying to point out is that there are already some very good resources that answer those "which part belongs here" type questions that a lot of new users commonly ask.

It's not even that the veterans don't want to help you, per se. Instead, they are very powerful, on-demand, but limited resource, available free of charge.

Granted, sometimes some veteran users come off a bit coarse with the basic reminders, but I would imagine that's something that someone like yourself, who seems to have had some sort of experience in a shop or auto repair environment, could understand.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 4:43 pm 
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^ I understand what you mean, but I was merely asking for a pic of the bracket in it's natural location. (So I had an idea of what to fab up) It's kind of hard to see it from random photos found on the internet, and very rarely would I find the exact photo I need.

But either way I managed to make a bracket that will work for the time being.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:11 pm 
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The bracket you are looking for is usually bolted to the carb itself, not the intake. Here is one pic I dug up on Google:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/rickr ... rb_006.jpg

It shows the bracket on the right that also holds a vac diaphragm that is part of the secondary linkage I believe. Looks like you are missing that too.

I also found a carb on ebay with somewhat decent pics:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111093890042

One of the pics has a pretty clear view of the bracket and the vac part.

Keep in mind that the LUV carbs did change a little over the years. Some of the 76 and 77 carbs I have actually have a couple of vac diaphragms in that area instead of just one. Main point is though that you are missing more than just that bracket. I'm not sure if you are going to see the secondary open up at all on that carb or whether that missing part is more involved in the choke and not the secondary. No secondary working means that truck will have even less power than normal, which isn't a huge amount already.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:20 pm 
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Oh yeah, I also found this post here searching for "carb linkage": viewtopic.php?f=5&t=27274

In the second and third pics you can clearly see the bracket, there is a black wire laying in the hole where the throttle cable should be bolted into.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:18 pm 
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800xl wrote:
The bracket you are looking for is usually bolted to the carb itself, not the intake. Here is one pic I dug up on Google:

http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/rickr ... rb_006.jpg

It shows the bracket on the right that also holds a vac diaphragm that is part of the secondary linkage I believe. Looks like you are missing that too.

I also found a carb on ebay with somewhat decent pics:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111093890042

One of the pics has a pretty clear view of the bracket and the vac part.

Keep in mind that the LUV carbs did change a little over the years. Some of the 76 and 77 carbs I have actually have a couple of vac diaphragms in that area instead of just one. Main point is though that you are missing more than just that bracket. I'm not sure if you are going to see the secondary open up at all on that carb or whether that missing part is more involved in the choke and not the secondary. No secondary working means that truck will have even less power than normal, which isn't a huge amount already.


Actually the missing diaphram is the choke pulloff unit. The large flat horizontal one is the one that operates the secondary. Pull off diaphram's job is to pull open the choke slightly when the engine starts to keep the mixture correct and not flood out the engine until it warms up.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 5:30 pm 
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egg wrote:

Actually the missing diaphram is the choke pulloff unit. The large flat horizontal one is the one that operates the secondary. Pull off diaphram's job is to pull open the choke slightly when the engine starts to keep the mixture correct and not flood out the engine until it warms up.



Yes I remember now, thanks egg. I had one of them on my 76 split right down the middle and I JB welded it back together. As I recall before I got it repaired I backed the choke off a bit but it was starting and running ok without it, as long as the vac line leading to it is plugged. It is one of the very few things that the stock Hitachi carb tolerates being unhooked or disabled. :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Oh okay, I see what is missing! I'm missing the entire choke pull off unit! The vacuum nipple that the hose attaches to has been capped off. I've looked all over the inside of the truck and in the bed and the part isn't there.

Attached are pictures.

So the name of what I need is the choke pull off unit ? Choke assembly?

I need this truck, it's been so long since I've worked on something carbureted haha I can't believe I didn't notice this from the start!


Attachments:
File comment: Circled in red, choke assembly ??
luvmissingpart.png
luvmissingpart.png [ 931.44 KiB | Viewed 11431 times ]
File comment: This is my carb, see what is missing?
Photo0122.jpg
Photo0122.jpg [ 151.57 KiB | Viewed 11431 times ]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Installed new starter and new fuel pump and put some gas in the tank...

She runs!! Fires right up with little effort too! Smokes a bit but I can smell bad gas so that's probably what is causing the smoke, on top of the truck has sat for who knows how long.

Without the choke assembly she revs really high so I have to hold the flap closed with my hand to keep it at idle, but won't rev without the proper linkage (which I guess is part of what is missing) to allow the flap to open when the throttle is pressed.

Also noticed the heater water cock (if that is what it's called) on the driver side fire wall is leaking coolant. Looks like I'll be doing a bypass on that for the moment.

Progress none-the-less. 8)

Also, I'd like to test drive the truck and move it from here at the shop to out at my house, I have a few ideas but perhaps you guys could help, what (from your personal experience perhaps?) would be the best way to hook up that choke how it sits to drive it? At least 8 miles?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 5:28 pm 
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I would take the tang that the choke spring hooks to and wire tie it open. You won't have a choke but it should be driveable. On the heater valve, it's love looking for a needle in a haystack finding one that works and does not leak. Best is to find a universal one and make it work.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
I would take the tang that the choke spring hooks to and wire tie it open. You won't have a choke but it should be driveable. On the heater valve, it's love looking for a needle in a haystack finding one that works and does not leak. Best is to find a universal one and make it work.


I tried taking a piece of wire and holding it open, but if the choke flap is wide open the truck revs really high and moving the throttle doesn't do much it just revs high regardless with the flap wide open. If I wire it shut the truck idles but no rev when I give it throttle. I have to open the choke flap simultaneously with the throttle to get it to rev other wise one of the two scenarios I just mentioned happens. I tried putting a spring on it but the spring I had was too stiff and just kept it shut. If I can find a softer spring it might work. :?

As for the heater valve I'll look for universal ones (checked RockAuto they don't have one for the Luv), but if I not I'll just put a bypass hose on it until I find something that works.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:17 pm 
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What you are explaining is a problem that is common on these carbs, look for a Weber or a good stock one. When I had a stock LUV I had two carbs, one that passed smog and one that ran good.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 10:40 pm 
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Luvrv8 wrote:
What you are explaining is a problem that is common on these carbs, look for a Weber or a good stock one. When I had a stock LUV I had two carbs, one that passed smog and one that ran good.


Crap... Well I guess I may just have to tow the truck home. I wouldn't mind leaving it at the shop until it's ready to go but I am unsure how much longer I'm going to be there, "the well is running dry", you could say...

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 12:15 pm 
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Well I guess instead of a choke assembly, I'm in the market for a Weber carb! (check my ad in the classifieds section!)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2013 1:17 pm 
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Sounds like some of the linkage is screwy to the fast idle or the idle is just set too high. You should be able to hold that choke wide open and get it to idle down to normal. Might be some of the parts of the choke and hanging loose and binding up the the throttle making it rev up. Does the throttle close itself when you manually pull it open? ( as if the cable were pulling it) There is usually a spring on the throttle shaft that turns it back to closed, but also one that hooks to the bracket that the cable hooks to that pulls it closed. One or the other will do, but if both are missing the throttle will sit open and rev high until you twist it closed again.

To adjust the idle there is a screw that is on part of the linkage right next to where the throttle shaft goes into the carb. Don't mess too much with the screw on the base of the carb on the side, that is the idle mixture adjustment. First make sure someone didn't just crank the idle screw up too high. That mixture adjustment is pretty fussy so before you touch it you want to have the rest of the carb working-ish.

I've had some trouble with the stock carbs like everyone else, but I could usually get them to run pretty much right without too much fight. I think I actually fought with my Weber more getting it dialed in just right. What you have though is more like parts of a carb and it may have left over bits of the missing pieces getting in the way of what is left.

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86 Isuzu Trooper reliable backup
77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

MEPR: Man, my 4x4 makes all other LUVs look good :lol:


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