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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 11:05 pm 
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My 79 base 1.8L 4x2 upgraded from 4 speed to 5 speed, has run flawlessly for years. Of course I only drive it about 25 - 50 miles at best each summer (really more like 20mi.) With the exception of a fuel pump gone bad either last sumeer or the summer before (I don't recall, wow, really?). Anyway the fuel pump, along with a new filter, both look as new as the day I bought them and I pulled the filter to check for dirt (nothing). I haven't had to hook up a timing light and meter in so long, I almost forgot how to do it. So I check the timing and readjust the carb from scratch. the fuel level is good in the float chamber. I replaced the plugs (3 out of 4 were saturated with fuel and one even looked like it had oil on it, but it doesn't smoke so not sure what that is about. I should probably mention that the choke coil has never quite worked perfectly, but it's not big enough of a deal to spend $75 for a new one! Currently the vehicle will start, warm up and idle fine, but when I put it in to gear and release the clutch it will accelerate briefly before losing power and wanting to die. If necessary, it will restart no problem, idle and rev without hesitation. I'm thinking it's the accelerator pump or maybe it could be the distbributor solenoid (that would be awesome!) Have I missed anything? Scratching my head here?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 11:20 pm
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Location: McMinnville, OR
Check the points, or just replace them. They can give those symptoms, which mimic a fuel pump or fuel flow issue. Look for pits or deposits on the contacts. It is easiest to just replace them though, but if you see anything wrong that will tell you you're on the right track.

You should check the fuel flow at the carb too. That much sitting and fuel can turn to varish/sludge and kill even a very new fuel pump. Start it up and let it idle for a while to ensure the carb bowl is full, then shut it down and pull the fuel line at the carb. Place the hose in a clear container secured somehow, and start it up. watch how much fuel comes into the container. It should give a good steady stream. If it is just trickling out it could be pumping just enough to keep up at idle but it empties the carb bowl when you try to drive.

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77 LUV 2wd stock beltway blaster (resting)
79 4x4 LUV project: 2.6L, 5spd, 31s (eventually)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:28 am
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I actually try to pump the tank dry every winter, which, I'm sure, was the cause of my fuel pump dying in the first place, but Yeah, the sitting fuel was my first thought. I have run enough fresh fuel through it that I think I have eliminated that possibility? I could accelerate in first gear and the instant I lose power imediately cut the power to the pump and check the bowl float chamber to see if the fuel is still level? (might be a bad pump?) Regardless I think I'm gonna replace the points, condenser, cap and rotor. I'll let you know what happens?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 3:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:28 am
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This morning I did a complete tune up, but it made no difference. I can tach it out in first gear, but when I accelerate in second it just dies (like the fuel has been cut off, or a sudden loss of spark)? I turned the ignition off imediately upon loss of power and checked the fuel level in the carb and it was good. I manually choke it, turn the key and it instantly fires up and fast idles. If it died from a loss of fuel, wouldn't the float chamber be empty or at least on the low side of the window? Can a clogged jet create similar symptims? I still don't think there is anything wrong with the fuel pump? Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 10:41 am
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Location: Seattle
Check the timing and pull the vac advance off the dist and plug it. 6 degrees with no vac advance = like 15 degrees with vac advance plugged in at 900 rpm.

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