If the nut is loose the pinion bearings aren't pre-loaded, which can cause the whole pinion gear shaft & yoke to wobble. Put a socket on the nut, see if you can turn it easily just a bit by hand, if so it's definitely loose. The nuts are supposed to be staked to the threads, this deformation can give you a false reading on a torque wrench just about the time it gets tight enough, so that's why you may have to sneak up on the correct tightness. You can also take the nut completely off, run a tap through it and a thread chase on the shaft to clean the thread burrs, then you'll get a clean torque reading. If you have the nut completely off whether you're cleaning the threads or not this is a good time to replace the seal- which starts leaking quickly with a wobbly shaft- (drain the lube first or park with the nose uphill), seal is Timken #474133. I have fixed one rear with a loose nut & replaced a pinion seal in another by doing the thread clean method on both the shaft & nut, then torqueing the nut to 100 ft-lbs (tighten until the noise goes away, then stop, 100 ft-lbs worked for me- twice), then staking the nut in about three places (I had to re-do one because I didn't stake it sufficiently, the nut didn't stay tight) and both rears have been doing fine for a good while. Be aware this method may not work- if the nut has backed off despite the staking & you catch it quickly enough it has the best chance. A failed pinion bearing can also cause slack in the nut, but re-tightening will make it worse, not cure the problem. As with over-compressing the crush sleeve the only cure for a bad bearing is a complete rebuild or replacement.
_________________ '78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78. '87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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