There should only be one vacuum line to the brake booster. On a '78 it is rubber coming off the intake at the rear, switches to pre-formed hard line until just before the booster where it turns back to rubber where it connects to the check valve in the end of the booster. Air (or vacuum) will travel towards the intake but not the other way if the check valve is functioning. (BTW without a proper check valve you will have brakes with the engine running but almost none without & the pedal will be very hard. The check valve retains the vacuum in the booster for a period to continue to assist the brakes after the engine is shut off & stops providing vacuum.) I suspect when the wheel cylinder went & you used the brakes with low fluid you damaged the master cylinder or maybe pushed some of the trash in the bottom of the reservoir into someplace it didn't need to be. I would replace the master cylinder, make sure to bench bleed the new unit before installing. You can take an short piece of brake line (it's M10x1.00 or ask for "3/16 metric" at NAPA), cut it in two, attach the coupler ends to the outlet ports and bend the cut ends so that they are submerged in the reservoir fluid, activate the plunger until no bubbles. There is an adjustable rod sticking out of the end of the brake booster than may need not be the right length, it's easy to make a gauge to check for the proper length. There is a pushrod seal that can be damaged by bleeding the brakes without the engine running. I did it with the engine off for years with no with no apparant damage because I didn't know better. Now that I know better I bleed with the engine running.
_________________ '78 Chevy LUV,1.9,4sp,headers,31's,SAS Dana 30,Dana 20,SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, rough body, bought new 12/4/78. '87 Trooper,2.3,5sp,headers,31's,ball joint flip & spacer,Aussie Locker rear,Superwinch hubs,brush guard w/5.5K winch,more to come.
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